Newbie with a 1979 CT70
- Thread starter Talonfcc566
- Start date
OLD CT
Well-Known Member
it's all 70, even the knockoff carb. 50's use a 14mm. You have a 16mm there. Man the PO really ghetto rigged it.
Looks like they like RTV sealer also. It has no place on the intake or any other gaskets, and is to be avoided. Get yourself the correct gaskets to mount the proper intake. If you can get OEM gaskets even better in this area. Might as well mount the proper inake and spacer and reset the points to .016 before taking the head off to get a valve job. It should go faster with a wider gap. This bike is worth keeping the original engine. That's pretty much it in a nutshell for any chance of it retaining value. To have that close of engine frame #s is a big damn plus.
I like this bike.
Looks like they like RTV sealer also. It has no place on the intake or any other gaskets, and is to be avoided. Get yourself the correct gaskets to mount the proper intake. If you can get OEM gaskets even better in this area. Might as well mount the proper inake and spacer and reset the points to .016 before taking the head off to get a valve job. It should go faster with a wider gap. This bike is worth keeping the original engine. That's pretty much it in a nutshell for any chance of it retaining value. To have that close of engine frame #s is a big damn plus.I like this bike.
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Talonfcc566
Member
Racerx, and OLD CT,
Thank you both so very much for all the help and suggestions.
I will do some reading on doing the valve job. I will also get the paint off the head .. can't be helping the cool effect.
Working aircraft we tend to go to the middle of and range, that why I set the points to .014 .. but I will increase to 16.
I am not very familiar with CT70 sites but I'm looking and watching for a manifold,carb (with spacer), and airbox.
If you guys see what I need and don't mind giving me a heads up I don't mind spending the money to make her right.
Yes, I think PO did what he had to do to get it running to sell. I think for 650.00 I did okay.
So my plan is:
set points to .016, buy a correct carb and spacer, buy a manifold, buy an air box.
Finish up buy completing a valve job.
I'm going slowly replace wiring, battery box, and get light added and correct.
Long term with be strip and paint.
Stick a fork I this thread, I think its done unless anyone else has some thoughts.
Talonfcc566 out!
Thank you both so very much for all the help and suggestions.
I will do some reading on doing the valve job. I will also get the paint off the head .. can't be helping the cool effect.
Working aircraft we tend to go to the middle of and range, that why I set the points to .014 .. but I will increase to 16.
I am not very familiar with CT70 sites but I'm looking and watching for a manifold,carb (with spacer), and airbox.
If you guys see what I need and don't mind giving me a heads up I don't mind spending the money to make her right.
Yes, I think PO did what he had to do to get it running to sell. I think for 650.00 I did okay.
So my plan is:
set points to .016, buy a correct carb and spacer, buy a manifold, buy an air box.
Finish up buy completing a valve job.
I'm going slowly replace wiring, battery box, and get light added and correct.
Long term with be strip and paint.
Stick a fork I this thread, I think its done unless anyone else has some thoughts.
Talonfcc566 out!
I agree with Pat. You got a lot of value for the money. It's a cool light custom with a ton of potential.
Try setting the points at 0.018...it advances timing slightly. That tends to add a little high rpm snap on 3-speeds, which have fixed timing.
Imo, that reproduction carb ought to be fine. It's certainly more adjustable than the early emission-compliant unit this model wore from the factory.
Try setting the points at 0.018...it advances timing slightly. That tends to add a little high rpm snap on 3-speeds, which have fixed timing.
Imo, that reproduction carb ought to be fine. It's certainly more adjustable than the early emission-compliant unit this model wore from the factory.
Talonfcc566
Member
racerx,
I agree on keeping carb. No hurry until I get a manifold to install and install correctly as Pat mentioned. I did not post the pick of the carb but it was clean inside. Floats good. Only strange apart is the float needle valve did not have the typical rubber tip.
Points and coils and condenser are newer.
I agree on keeping carb. No hurry until I get a manifold to install and install correctly as Pat mentioned. I did not post the pick of the carb but it was clean inside. Floats good. Only strange apart is the float needle valve did not have the typical rubber tip.
Points and coils and condenser are newer.
copperhead
Member
Talon,
650 sounds like a deal to me....I know you said "long term" as to stripping and painting..and I'd be curious to the thinking of others here. I understand some folks like return these bikes to totally original condition. I should also state that I'm not much of a purist by any means, so my opinion is probably going to be off base to lots here. Personally, I don't think I'd repaint it unless you ARE a purist and don't like the color as it sits now. Even if your ultimate goal would be to possess an original, I'm not sure this would be the bike to change to do so to. Again, this is only IMHO, and not trying to influence you one way or another. I think you've got a great looking ride there.
PS: Any chance you can post up a pic of the bike head on to show the sweep/bend of those handlebars? Thanks.
650 sounds like a deal to me....I know you said "long term" as to stripping and painting..and I'd be curious to the thinking of others here. I understand some folks like return these bikes to totally original condition. I should also state that I'm not much of a purist by any means, so my opinion is probably going to be off base to lots here. Personally, I don't think I'd repaint it unless you ARE a purist and don't like the color as it sits now. Even if your ultimate goal would be to possess an original, I'm not sure this would be the bike to change to do so to. Again, this is only IMHO, and not trying to influence you one way or another. I think you've got a great looking ride there.
PS: Any chance you can post up a pic of the bike head on to show the sweep/bend of those handlebars? Thanks.
Talonfcc566
Member
Hey Copperhead,
Good thoughts and again I have to say I agree and everything you said. Long term for me would be years down the road, 5 years. I have 1 concours restoration in progress of a 1970 AMC AMX 360 4-speed. I have another 70 AMX 390 4-speed that will be what ever I want it to be .. maybe a "Corvette Summer" style ..lol.
I know the Green Weenie is not the restoration bike. I have changed the fuel tank and removed the chain guard working on her. The paint looks good but I can see where it's not much better that a rattle can paint job. PO put parts on to early and the paint is coming off with the part leaving primer behind. The PO said he couldn't media blast the inside of main frame / body ( what do you guy call that ..?) and so only wired brushed it. I can see that on the inside battery area there is still some corrosion that will break through in time. Since I have built a shop with all the tools I need to handle this and I'm getting better at prep & paint I figured I'll put her in line someday.
As for the handle bars, I found some Japanese sites but a little hard to understand and search. My HB don't have any marking other than a serial number .. 0022. I will take some pics today.
Good thoughts and again I have to say I agree and everything you said. Long term for me would be years down the road, 5 years. I have 1 concours restoration in progress of a 1970 AMC AMX 360 4-speed. I have another 70 AMX 390 4-speed that will be what ever I want it to be .. maybe a "Corvette Summer" style ..lol.
I know the Green Weenie is not the restoration bike. I have changed the fuel tank and removed the chain guard working on her. The paint looks good but I can see where it's not much better that a rattle can paint job. PO put parts on to early and the paint is coming off with the part leaving primer behind. The PO said he couldn't media blast the inside of main frame / body ( what do you guy call that ..?) and so only wired brushed it. I can see that on the inside battery area there is still some corrosion that will break through in time. Since I have built a shop with all the tools I need to handle this and I'm getting better at prep & paint I figured I'll put her in line someday.
As for the handle bars, I found some Japanese sites but a little hard to understand and search. My HB don't have any marking other than a serial number .. 0022. I will take some pics today.
Talonfcc566
Member
OLD CT
Well-Known Member
Guys, they kind of look like the bars on Webikes Japan. Type in part# 5607 in the search bar. Minimoto swallow type. $20.91 plus around $40 to ship. Let me know what you think. There is a brand new complete OEM air box cannister assy from dratv for 72 shipped. Best price IMO. All the used crap is just that, and not complete on ebay. Order it up!
copperhead
Member
TotalIty understand, paint jobs can be deceiving from just pictures ..You're lucky to have the facilities and skills to tackle the job. Working on the stuff is is half the fun anyway...in most cases. Thanks for the pics.
Talonfcc566
Member
OLD CT,
I would say that's them and a nice price. I went there and saw close one but missed those.
Copperhead,
Your in my friend,
That make me glad to still see them around for you if you decide to go that route.
Thanks Pat,
I would say that's them and a nice price. I went there and saw close one but missed those.
Copperhead,
Your in my friend,
That make me glad to still see them around for you if you decide to go that route.
Thanks Pat,
copperhead
Member
Yeah, they kind of look like them, but I don't think they are. The "nubs" look longer than Talons, And there doesn't appear to be any flairing to the bars like his seem to. Dunno.
Talonfcc566
Member
Copperhead,
I did notice the difference in the upward angle. The ones OLD CT found are more straight upwards. Mine seem to angle more. Nubs might be longer. I would measure but we can't compare. I think if you wanted the same angle you could get creative and spread them open for a closer angle. Their are close.
I did notice the difference in the upward angle. The ones OLD CT found are more straight upwards. Mine seem to angle more. Nubs might be longer. I would measure but we can't compare. I think if you wanted the same angle you could get creative and spread them open for a closer angle. Their are close.
Talonfcc566
Member
I readjusted points to .017 and not much difference. Still topping out at 31-32 mph.
I revve quickly in first gear were I stop accelerating. I shift to second and she's starts building momentum but at top of second there is some sputtering. Third is smooth until the top were there is sputtering. I'll have to get some more accurate information .. only what I vaguely recall.
I think I should look at the carb adjustments. The points were way off, I wouldn't bet against the carb adjustments being wrong.
I see in the post on (2 stroke) carb principles and with what you SE (system experts) think, I may have some jetting work to do.
I read the TSM for carb adjustments. I know a good rule is the always count the turns to make sure you can always get back to where you were. Before I get into trouble .... any other hidden articles our there for adjusting the carb? I'm also not to sure the throttle cable is correct.
I revve quickly in first gear were I stop accelerating. I shift to second and she's starts building momentum but at top of second there is some sputtering. Third is smooth until the top were there is sputtering. I'll have to get some more accurate information .. only what I vaguely recall.
I think I should look at the carb adjustments. The points were way off, I wouldn't bet against the carb adjustments being wrong.
I see in the post on (2 stroke) carb principles and with what you SE (system experts) think, I may have some jetting work to do.
I read the TSM for carb adjustments. I know a good rule is the always count the turns to make sure you can always get back to where you were. Before I get into trouble .... any other hidden articles our there for adjusting the carb? I'm also not to sure the throttle cable is correct.
Increasing point gap has only a subtle impact and up to a limit, which you've reached. The engine shouldn't be "sputtering" at the top of any gear...that indicates a problem and a big one, at that. Based on your mph results, I'd guesstimate that your motor is down on power, by at least 40%. Carburetion could account for some of that but, the bulk of that power loss is due to low compression. You have at least one leaking valve and that "sputtering", assuming a clean carburetor that's atomizing fuel properly, could be the result of valve problems in addition to burnt/pitted face(s) and seat(s).
Talonfcc566
Member
Morning racerx,
I though of and forgot to do a compression check. Never did it on a kick starter basis but that should clear up or add to data on get her to run smoothly and effectively. I'm still with you on valves being an issue and this could be why PO sold this one rather then his 82 model.
Unless I'm incorrect, I will press forward on a compression check first. Thought just hit my. Can I use an air ratchet or impact to turn it over to get a good compression check .. ?
I though of and forgot to do a compression check. Never did it on a kick starter basis but that should clear up or add to data on get her to run smoothly and effectively. I'm still with you on valves being an issue and this could be why PO sold this one rather then his 82 model.
Unless I'm incorrect, I will press forward on a compression check first. Thought just hit my. Can I use an air ratchet or impact to turn it over to get a good compression check .. ?
Talonfcc566
Member
Wasn't expecting that ... man that's a small spark plug threaded portion. I recon I'll have to find an adapter .. lawnmower shop ..??
Will have to wait on a compression check later this week.
Until then, have a great weekend.
Will have to wait on a compression check later this week.
Until then, have a great weekend.
Talonfcc566
Member
Hello fellas,
Got home from a week of training and my 10 mm compression fitting arrived. Did the compression check and I reached 110 psi. If it was a car, I would be happy with135 psi across all cylinders. On this 1 hit wonder I'm not sure. Is 110 psi good or should it be higher?
Might find some time later between "honey do's" catch-up to adjust valves and reacomplished the compression check.
Thanks for any thoughts.
Got home from a week of training and my 10 mm compression fitting arrived. Did the compression check and I reached 110 psi. If it was a car, I would be happy with135 psi across all cylinders. On this 1 hit wonder I'm not sure. Is 110 psi good or should it be higher?
Might find some time later between "honey do's" catch-up to adjust valves and reacomplished the compression check.
Thanks for any thoughts.