Shifter arm bent?

C

copperhead

Member
After installing my new "all balls" steering bearings..well worth doing IMO.,...I got a serious case of might as wells. Ended up stripping the bike right down to the frame mainly for lubing, inspecting and cleaning. Since I have the engine pulled and still not convinced the bike is shifting right, I pulled the clutch cover to see if everything was installed right. The only issue I could see it that the shifter arm might be bent? Looking for experienced eyes to offer an opinion. Especially the contact wear on the arm. also wondering if it's possible to tell if the clutch is original. Can offer up more pictures if needed. T
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hanks.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
It'd be unusual if it actually is bent. But after 4 decades, anything is possible.

Best method to check this part...reassemble the clutch + linkage, then see if everything fits together properly. If that clutch release lever is tweaked for real you'll see the misalignment.

Nice job cleaning the oil spinner, btw.
 
C

copperhead

Member
racerx said:
It'd be unusual if it actually is bent. But after 4 decades, anything is possible.

Best method to check this part...reassemble the clutch + linkage, then see if everything fits together properly. If that clutch release lever is tweaked for real you'll see the misalignment.

Nice job cleaning the oil spinner, btw.
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Thanks for the compliment...but it really wasn't that bad to start with. I think someone was there before me, or the oil was changed frequently. As to the lever, why would the wear marks show as a curved line and not a straight one?
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Honestly, until you posed this question the normal wear pattern had never occurred to me. That said, look at the V-shaped groove into which it fits. It's not parallel to the clutch face. That, alone likely results in the contact pattern being an arc.

I'd want to verify that the end piece (with the wear marks) is parallel to the crankshaft centerline and uniformly 90 degrees from it. I'd also bench-shift through every gear, in both directions.

If the bellcrank turns out to be bent, it's a cheap part to replace. But figure out if it is injured, before throwing parts at it.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Viewing your photos on a desktop screen, it appears to be undamaged, just a little worn at the contact spot. I doubt that's enough to cause problems.
 
C

copperhead

Member
Gary said:
Did you remove the clutch assy from the engine or did the last guy forget to bend over the lock tab for the nut?
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No, I didn't pull it. One of the tabs is bent in however. It's hard to see in the picture, but it's the one at about 2:30. You did make me go back to verify it was though..so thanks for that. (y)

Thanks racer...I'll sleep better tonight.:D I did polish up both contact areas.
 
OLD CT

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Unless you know this engine has a good working clutch, it only makes sense to at least change out the fiber discs while you are here.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
OLD CT said:
Unless you know this engine has a good working clutch, it only makes sense to at least change out the fiber discs while you are here.
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That's sound advice. If you're taking things that far, disassemble the clutch pack and inspect the steel plates, too...before ordering parts. If the plates are worn, i.e. dimples gone, or burned (heat discoloration) you may as well order plates & discs at the same time. Worn/glazed plates oftentimes result in clutch slippage.
 
C

copperhead

Member
OLD CT said:
Unless you know this engine has a good working clutch, it only makes sense to at least change out the fiber discs while you are here.
Click to expand...

racerx said:
That's sound advice. If you're taking things that far, disassemble the clutch pack and inspect the steel plates, too...before ordering parts. If the plates are worn, i.e. dimples gone, or burned (heat discoloration) you may as well order plates & discs at the same time. Worn/glazed plates oftentimes result in clutch slippage.
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I should have known better than to come here looking for advice...:LOL: But I'd have to agree, further "might as well" seems appropriate in this case. The nut socket is on the way via Amazon, should have it by Sun. I'll be back after I pull the clutch with new pictures and we can all find more ways to spend my money...:p Seriously though, all the info and help from you guys is greatly appreciated.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
A clutch rebuild is cheap, and a very quick task...once it's off the crank and on your bench. An extra $25-30 and maybe half an hour of your time, now is cheap insurance. As long as you run the proper JASO-spec (wet clutch compatible) oil and don't abuse the bike, you may never have to go back in to rebuild the clutch again. FYI, clutch slip and its resulting parts damage (as well as worn shift forks), has become all too common over the past decade, since automotive oils were reformulated in ways that make them incompatible with these engines. Being forced to rebuild a clutch, once the bike has been running...and after all of the anticipation...is likely to involve obscene oaths, and hairline erosion.

Mo`better to do things right, at the outset...and enjoy good results.
 
C

copperhead

Member
Finally got the clutch nut socket after Amazon screwed up. I'm going to order new ones, but here's a picture of one of the plates anyway. The double sided middle one looks almost new. Is that typical? Will order the big springs too, but not sure how to replace them. What about the 4 small springs that sit on the posts..change them too? Sprockets and chain are next, but that will be another thread.
clutch.jpg
 
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6

69ST

Well-Known Member
You have to remove the 4 small screws from the outward-facing side of the clutch basket. Then the driver element & springs are released. Be careful with those little springs, they have amazing launch potential, especially during reassembly. Unless you lose one, no need to replace; they are there to dampen harmonics from the clutch pack assembly.

FYI, I cannot really tell the true condition of that friction disc from the photo. And it's doubtful that any photo would be sufficient. If it's been contaminated with friction modifiers from the wrong type of oil, it could look perfect regardless. How do the plates look?
 
C

copperhead

Member
Anybody? I'd like to order everything at once. Except for one that shows some extra wear in one spot , the plates are pretty smooth. I've never worked on any type of clutch, so don't know what I'm suppose to be looking for.
 
OLD CT

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
I do not see warping, rust or bluing. You could lay them on a piece of glass or something flat to double check them. Order new discs.
 
C

copperhead

Member
saskct70s said:
amazon screwed me on socket as well..ordered in feb and still no show...fortnine shipped one in 5 days
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LOL...After all was said and done, I ended up with 3 of them. Got a refund on the first one I ordered, sent the one back I reordered for a refund....and the 3rd?...I have no idea where that one came from.. I'd give it to someone here, but it probably wouldn't be worth the shipping cost.
 
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