silver tag correct parts

samstheman

Active Member
Not doing a 100 point resto just checking parts mines missing a few. So this speedo is off a 1971 is it the same for silver tag. And is my motor suppose to have special mark on it. Is the horn different from a 1971 horn also. Im using a 1971 with blown motor to get the other parts I'm missing on a running silver tag. 9C7ED78D-8E12-409C-A0DF-C8FD1358599D_zpsoogrqfa0.jpg
 

samstheman

Active Member
Also vin is 1138xx
motor is CT70E-
1124xx
Would This be correct engine to frame just so I know.
Trying to figure between my two bikes whats the best bike to move forward on.
 
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OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Also vin is xx3812
motor is CT70E-
xx2404
Would This be correct engine to frame just so I know.
Trying to figure between my two bikes whats the best bike to move forward on.

No one is going to be able to help if you X the all so important first three :40:digits! It goes like this, guys I have 100XXX vin # yadda yadda yadda. Then someone can say whatever. everthing you mentioned is sivertag related and someone that knows them can tell the difference. To me, silvertags don't mean crap. Silvertag frames are weak and had booger welds, and came with a recall about it.
 
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samstheman

Active Member
So if its not correct motor I don't have to go crazy matching up parts. It runs just going to enjoy that
the other bike with blown motor might be worth fixing that motor 1971 ct 70
other bike 1844xx
1842xx
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
The ST high beam jewel is felt like substance so that is different then the later plastic jewel. Just hook the bike up to your standards. I think it would be cool to do it with the leftover paint from the Bug. Would be a good to have matching color machines in the man cave. And the car hangs! Just a thought.
 

samstheman

Active Member
The ST high beam jewel is felt like substance so that is different then the later plastic jewel. Just hook the bike up to your standards. I think it would be cool to do it with the leftover paint from the Bug. Would be a good to have matching color machines in the man cave. And the car hangs! Just a thought.
Thanks for that That color is witches brew from this to that and ended up that color I tweeked it a little at the end and used every last bit but bug is outside one of my daily drivers My truck I inherited from my grandpa and restored takes up man cave. Its here54FCE7C4-2336-4C09-BEA8-E6B1D93AE971_zpsxquaocdf.jpg
 

Gary

Well-Known Member
To me, silvertags don't mean crap. Silvertag frames are weak and had booger welds, and came with a recall about it.

You can say that because you don't have one :3: I agree though what you have is what you have. Just for a reference though I have a early black tag. It has every thing but the cloth lens and exhaust mainly because it had been replaced. I replaced it when I got it since it had the usual rust out and at that time I did not know there was a difference. I have no recollection of the exhaust or any pictures of when I brought it home. That said,the difference between engine and frame is 288. 127xxx and 126xxx
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
Gary, if it was the first ST off the line, that would impress me! :21:
The first of production any model year would impress me actually. I believe there is a member here I know, that has such. It may not be assembled and a finished product at the moment though. Not a biggie either.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
So my silvertag is no good. Should I be working on the 1971 its better?

With a few exceptions, an ST is just another K0.

The earliest ST frames (and damned few of them) lacked the crossbar, which connects the RH & LH sides of the frame, just above the engine, forming the bottom of the triangle. Other than that, they're all the same as any other K0 frame with the exception of the hole for the tail light pigtail...which is virtually a non-issue. K0/HK0 frames have been known to develop stress cracks, on either side of the triangle above the upper engine mounts. (K1-later frames have the one-piece internal engine cradle, which eliminated the stress cracking.) Weld and OEM finish quality is wildly variable, throughout the K0 production run. The later K0s tend to be the best. Stress cracks are relatively uncommon, easy enough to weld.

Complete & "correct" STs tend to command a modest premium over other K0 & K1 models. As Pat mentioned, pointedly, the earliest production specimens have the most resale potential. As the ST era progressed, Honda made a lot of small running changes, none of which are well-documented...hence the diminished market premium of the later bikes; there's no way to really know what was factory-correct, other than an unmolested bike in a remarkable state of preservation.

Most of the differences are bolt-on parts, some overlap into the BT era. The toughest items to find are the early-style muffler, wheel hubs, seat pan (in usable condition) and speedometer. The ST speedometers have plastic high-beam indicator jewels, they're just flat plastic; the fabric jewel is urban myth. The silkscreening is different and the dial is only supported on one side, internally, making them susceptible to breakage due to engine vibration.

Nothing really wrong with building a rider, restomod or custom on a K0 frame. If starting from scratch, I'd prefer a K1. If you're ultimately going for a full-on resto, K0 is a safe bet and an ST should be at the high end; it comes down to what you see as being worthwhile. Sourcing a full compliment of ST-specific parts, from scratch would be a challenge and might cost enough to leave you with a net loss, come auction time.
 

CTKing

Active Member
I'm yet to own one silver tag that has identical parts as another. The very early ones seem to have the most differences and and as the bikes progressed and were mass produced I believe they ironed out the weak spots and made the bikes more assembly line worthy. My earliest one had 27 different parts if I remember correctly. Most of the others I have owned were usually between 10-20. I personally plan on eventually doing a 100 point resto on one. With that said I have been collecting the rare parts as I find them. The key thing for me is to get a very low vin# if possible. Anyone have one of the first 10?
 

OLD CT

Well-Known Member
So my silvertag is no good. Should I be working on the 1971 its better?

I am not implying it is no good, just not enough st parts in ''as is'' usable condition.
Maybe part it out or sell the whole thing? To offset the cost of redoing the other bike. It's your call.
 
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CTKing

Active Member
Most people don't even know what a ST is nor the difference between It and the other KO's. Cost wise a regular KO would be way cheaper and a lot easier to build. Just because you can get all the parts oem or re-pop. I for one only want to do a ST because I like things that are strange and unusual.
 
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