Stator plate screws..ARGH!

[yz250roost]

OK so I'm finally getting around to replacing the wiring on my K3 project bike and I'm putting in a CDI. So I got to take my stock stator plate screws out. got the top one budged out with minimal effort, the lower one however is a pain in the butt and ended up stripping out!!! So what have you guys done to fix this? Easy out? Drill it out then tap the hole? Ugh this is just what I needed, was hoping to have the bike giving me spark by the end of the weekend. Let me know your suggestions! Thanks!

 

[unit5alive]

I always try a impact driver first, if that fails I use a normal size pair of craftsman side cutters, or some people call them electrical cutters, it you point them straight at the phillips screw and put a small small amount of inward pressure on them while squeezing very tightly they will usually bite in to the edges of the screw and loosen it, you will see one straight mark on each side of the screw where the blades bit in, it almost always works for me, you know after writing this I forgot the stator plate screws are tapered,it does work on the srews that stick out though,I believe craftsman has a kit for screws that have stripped heads, also you can drill it out , just keep down sizing the drill bits till the head comes off then the remaining threads will come out with needle nose plyers , Craig.

 

[unit5alive]

Craftsman 7 pc. Drill-Out/Screw-Out Power Extractors

 

[kmcrab]

I ususally use an impact driver first and if that is not successful I will soak the screws for a few days in PB and try each day again. If that fails I use extractors. With the extractors you should not have to re-tap.

 

[snooter]

above is all good advice..if i am ever in a serious bind however..take an old beater socket that is just smaller then the head of the screw..beat the socket on and attach ratchet..i have used this beater method several times and have yet to be messed with by the bike...just an idea for those stubborn possessed bikes we all seem to end up with at one time or another

 

[hornetgod]

I would drill the head off the screw using a bit the same diameter as the shank of the screw. Ensure you stay centered on the screw head and drill down only to the depth needed for the screw head to come loose to remove the stator. Once the stator is removed, you should be able to spin the exposed screw shank out by hand or needle nose pliers.

 

[69ST]

I'll second HGs recommendation. Start a pilot hole with an 1/8" drill bit, that should get you close to centered. Follow that with a 3/16" and the head should pop off. Use the first screw to determine drilling depth, marking the drill bit with masking tape as a guide. You absolutely do not want to drill any deeper than base of the screw head (and it's tough to gauge by eye). Make sure that no metal filings get inside the crankcase, that's hard steel and will cause damage. PB blast probably won't do much of anything for stator screws. It's the metal-to-metal face contact that prevents them backing-out, which is the whole point.

An impact driver is mandatory equipment for anyone working on these engines. Suggest that you visit the local Sears and pick one up. Lastly, replacing those stator screws with Allen heads wouldn't hurt. Never know when the next "surprise quiz", covering the stator, will be.:104:

 

[TBoltUSA]

Used parts

Heres the deal with old phillips screws
1) Use the proper size IMPACT tip ,,,,i think #3 is for these
2) Use an impac driver or impact wrench , these days you can get a very strong electric 1/2 inpac wrench from harbor freight for $40 and they hold up

TRICK
If the head still strips , take a piece of solid steel rod (1/4" square stock , 3/8 all thread or even a long bolt and hammer the head directly
This will force the metal back into the screw and shock it loose
then try your impact again

 

[yz250roost]

Thanks for the tips guys, I'll let you know how it goes. I've got a set of extractors now and some drill bits. I'll try the extractors first. If that doesn't work I'll drill out the head of the screw. The only thing I'm leary about is I've heard sometimes those extractors break off in the screw. If that happens there's very little hope of drilling through them to get the head of the screw off because they are hardened. We'll see....

 

[mfro]

I wouldn't mess around with extractors here. Take the easy way and just drill away the head as suggested. Worked many times for me on reluctant stator plate screws.

Once you have the plate out, you can easily remove the rest of the bolt with pliers.

 

[skwildman]

I have an old trick i have used many times in life , use an impact driver , and tighten the screw 1st ! Then hit it with the impact and loosen it... 99% of the time it works ... Used it on plumbing threads for most of my life and always worked , tried it on stuck fastners on racebikes and customer bikes, never failed ! Try it , you might just suprise yourself ! Use some wd 40 first

 

[yz250roost]

Yeah thanks again for all the tips. Got myself an impact driver from my Dad. I had to drill out the screw head because the head was so far gone. Luckily I've got a K4 project bike that I'm going to start on after this one, so I snagged one of the stator screws off it to replace the one I boogered up. Put the CDI in, the new o rings around the screw holes, the new stator plate gasket around the outside and installed it.......forgetting about the flywheel shaft seal...DOH!

Let's just say I had a REAL good time trying to get that new stator with the brand new seal back out, it was in there REALLY good. Eventually I was able to get it off and put the oil seal in. Wired it up and we've got GOOD spark. Thanks again guys