What am I doing wrong CT70 fork and wheel
- Thread starter bjf
- Start date
That's a new one on me.
Did you remember to install the distance collar, a.k.a. the load spacer that goes inside the hub, between the bearings? Your lock-up comment has me wondering. Next on the list, speedo drive gear, if it's not seated bad things can result. Lastly, is everything indexed correctly inside the fork...spring perches oriented so that the locating pins fit the cutouts in the tree on both sides?
Did you remember to install the distance collar, a.k.a. the load spacer that goes inside the hub, between the bearings? Your lock-up comment has me wondering. Next on the list, speedo drive gear, if it's not seated bad things can result. Lastly, is everything indexed correctly inside the fork...spring perches oriented so that the locating pins fit the cutouts in the tree on both sides?
First the wheel:
Distance collar is between the bearings.
I did get a front hub cover with a new speedo gear from CHP because mine had a striped gear in it. I found lining it up with the fork leg to be a nightmare because the fork leg didn't fit. I thought maybe it was from their being too much chrome on the fork leg but could be its aftermakert. I ended up grinding a little of the cover to get it to fit.
Now the fork:
Legs I had rechromed so they are original to the bike. Both legs have slide bushings and prison guides. One legs has a new spring with both ends but it measured up fine. That leg was more trouble getting it fully up in the fork crown but eventually got the leg in. I assume the piston slides and guide bushings aren't oriented so they could spin fully around if needed.
Anyway I got the wheel on better but it still looks slightly off. The wheel now spins but if I fully tighten the axle the wheel locks up. Thoughts?
Distance collar is between the bearings.
I did get a front hub cover with a new speedo gear from CHP because mine had a striped gear in it. I found lining it up with the fork leg to be a nightmare because the fork leg didn't fit. I thought maybe it was from their being too much chrome on the fork leg but could be its aftermakert. I ended up grinding a little of the cover to get it to fit.
Now the fork:
Legs I had rechromed so they are original to the bike. Both legs have slide bushings and prison guides. One legs has a new spring with both ends but it measured up fine. That leg was more trouble getting it fully up in the fork crown but eventually got the leg in. I assume the piston slides and guide bushings aren't oriented so they could spin fully around if needed.
Anyway I got the wheel on better but it still looks slightly off. The wheel now spins but if I fully tighten the axle the wheel locks up. Thoughts?
Mike'sMiniTrail
New Member
Looks like uneven fork legs (as-installed) in your pix. You should be able to tighten the axle nut, possibly until the threads strip, without getting wheel bind. The spacers, including the brake plate, form a structural unit...which is torque-neutral, i.e. places no side load on the bearings. If bearing bind is the problem, the bearings are dead.
Time for a little diagnostic homework. Pull the inner fork legs from the upper fork assembly, then see if you can properly (or nearly so) torque the axle, with everything sitting square, no wheel bind. If you can, then the problem is in the fork assembly. If you can't, then it's at the wheel hub end.
Time for a little diagnostic homework. Pull the inner fork legs from the upper fork assembly, then see if you can properly (or nearly so) torque the axle, with everything sitting square, no wheel bind. If you can, then the problem is in the fork assembly. If you can't, then it's at the wheel hub end.