My first ever Honda CT70 first ever anything.

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Check for air/intake leaks by spraying carb cleaner aound the intake,ect.
 

Hondasher

Member
I looked all over it and there was only one screw with a spring on it, anyways before I took the old carb off and put on the new one it was idling just fine, so I decided to see if it would idle with it again and it doesn't for some strange reason also the throttle is kind of crap it will go down but it'll stay there so I have to manually put it back up. Maybe it is an issue with the cable or something I don't even know.

Have a question for anyone that may know how much would the engine be worth with the old carb complete since it ran the bike fine when I did have it started and idling got up to 30mph easy even though I weigh a little over 250lbs. Let me know was thinking since I don't know crap about engines or carbs that maybe I'd sell it and buy a lifan 125cc engine.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
The throttle set up is the infamous "cruise control" of the CT70. Perfectly normal.

Keep the original engine set up to your bike or you will seriously devalue it. You could just mothball it in an old icechest or thick garbage bag out of the elements.
 

Hondasher

Member
The throttle set up is the infamous "cruise control" of the CT70. Perfectly normal.

Keep the original engine set up to your bike or you will seriously devalue it. You could just mothball it in an old icechest or thick garbage bag out of the elements.

Well if I could afford the new engine without selling the old I certainly would, right now as it is I can't.
 

Hondasher

Member
As an eBay Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.

Deoodles

Well-Known Member
I bought a CHP repop carb from CHP and it’s been trouble free for a couple years now. I have also tried cheap eBay carbs but haven’t been as lucky
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Unless you get ripped off, you usually get what you pay for.
When you order a carb, you need to know what the cable length is. All I've seen is long or short cable's on these. Dont know what the actual length's are. Specify build date to get model year.
 

Hondasher

Member
So I purchased the carburetor and it worked out great, I am able to adjust the tension of the throttle cable by the adjustment coupler on the top. Anyways was wondering if any of you can give me a crash course on how to properly drive it so I know I am doing it right since this is the first time I've driven one.

First things first do I let the bike slow down to downshift from 3 to 2 and then 1st and then neutral? Or do I press on the break and slow my bike down then downshift or up shift whatever it's called going from 3rd gear to neutral. Because I am going say 5 miles per hour and shift to first from second and get a little kick. Also do I use the handle bar on the left while shifting by pulling the lever or?
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
So I purchased the carburetor and it worked out great, I am able to adjust the tension of the throttle cable by the adjustment coupler on the top. Anyways was wondering if any of you can give me a crash course on how to properly drive it so I know I am doing it right since this is the first time I've driven one.

First things first do I let the bike slow down to downshift from 3 to 2 and then 1st and then neutral? Or do I press on the break and slow my bike down then downshift or up shift whatever it's called going from 3rd gear to neutral. Because I am going say 5 miles per hour and shift to first from second and get a little kick. Also do I use the handle bar on the left while shifting by pulling the lever or?

Correct me if I've misjudged your riding ability/experience. For the sake of brevity, I have to assume that you know how to ride a bike with a manual (hand lever operated) clutch. These little semi-automatics are very similar. In actuality, they are manual clutches without a hand lever. When the shift lever is depressed or lifted to either extreme, the clutch is disengaged - same as if you pulled the hand lever with a full manual. Fact is, the only thing "automatic" with the CT70/Z50 is the low-rpm engagement/disengagement...it's centrifugal, that's how the engine can idle while the tranny is in gear. Above ~1800-2000 rpm, the clutch is fully engaged...becoming a fully manual clutch. The lever action is integrated, via cam/plate/internal bellcrank, as part of the shifter shaft assembly.

So...you still have to modulate rpm & throttle opening the same as with any other bike. And, the key to smooth gear changes is learning how to modulate shift lever movement, at the extreme end of its rotation, (using your foot) to mimic hand lever action of a full manual. It takes a little practice. Once mastered, however, it is possible to execute silky-smooth gear changes, in either direction...upshift/downshift.
 

Hondasher

Member
Correct me if I've misjudged your riding ability/experience. For the sake of brevity, I have to assume that you know how to ride a bike with a manual (hand lever operated) clutch. These little semi-automatics are very similar. In actuality, they are manual clutches without a hand lever. When the shift lever is depressed or lifted to either extreme, the clutch is disengaged - same as if you pulled the hand lever with a full manual. Fact is, the only thing "automatic" with the CT70/Z50 is the low-rpm engagement/disengagement...it's centrifugal, that's how the engine can idle while the tranny is in gear. Above ~1800-2000 rpm, the clutch is fully engaged...becoming a fully manual clutch. The lever action is integrated, via cam/plate/internal bellcrank, as part of the shifter shaft assembly.

So...you still have to modulate rpm & throttle opening the same as with any other bike. And, the key to smooth gear changes is learning how to modulate shift lever movement, at the extreme end of its rotation, (using your foot) to mimic hand lever action of a full manual. It takes a little practice. Once mastered, however, it is possible to execute silky-smooth gear changes, in either direction...upshift/downshift.
The only experience I have is with my automatic 06 chevy impala LT I have never ridden or owned a Honda minibike or an ATV snowmobile or anything like that whatsoever so you may need to dumb it down for me.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
The only experience I have is with my automatic 06 chevy impala LT I have never ridden or owned a Honda minibike or an ATV snowmobile or anything like that whatsoever so you may need to dumb it down for me.
We all have to start somewhere. Knowing someone's experience makes things alot easier to explain. Your CT70 is a great tool to learn with. Even though it's relatively simple, it can still throw some mind boggling problems at even the most experienced, but it is easy to work on with basic tools. The only special tools they need are a flywheel puller, clutch nut tool, and a hand held "hammer activated" impact. Once you get used to their quirks and do's & don't's, you'll eventually enjoy working on these bikes.
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
With the bike idling in neutral, hold on to the bike and push the shift lever down completely, then release it. The bike might jump a little, BUT it should not move when you release the lever if the engine is at idle speed. If it does try to move...the idle may be too fast, OR you need to adjust the clutch.

Then, give some throttle, the bike should begin to move as the rpm's increase.
Then run the bike down the road until the rpm's are as high as you are comfortable with...release the throttle so the rpm's begin to drop...then click the shift lever completely down again...into second gear...then release the shift lever smoothly and apply throttle again...run up to speed/high rmp's and repeat to shift into third.
You should be able to stop, in any gear, but if you are in too high of a gear for the speed you are traveling, the engine will not have much power, indicating that you need to downshift to a lower gear.

If you are going fast in third gear, you need to allow the bike to slow down some before shifting down into second gear...otherwise the lower(too low for your speed) gear will slow the bike...possibly skidding the rear wheel...trying to throw you over the bars...and pulling the engine rpm's way high. You'll just have to get accustomed to knowing what gear you need to be in at any given speed. Typically, if you give it the gas, and it doesn't pull well, you know that you need to downshift so you'll have power...then speed up and go back into the higher gear.

Whether you are shifting up, or down, you should release the throttle so the rpm's drop a bit before shifting, otherwise you get hard shifts(not smooth) and it's hard on the transmission and clutch.

When you get used to shifting, you can learn to use the shift lever similar to a clutch lever. From neutral, click the shifter down completely and hold it there, give some throttle to raise the rpm's, the bike shouldn't move if you hold the shifter down, then release the shifter slowly. You'll feel the clutch begin to grab as you release the shifter and the bike will begin to move.
Then maybe run the bike into second gear and high rpm's, when you shift into third, hold the shifter down again...rev the engine a couple times...then rev the engine a little before you begin to release the shifter slowly again...this is just to help you to learn how the shift lever can be used just like a clutch lever. When you get good at it, you can start pulling some sweet wheelies between 2nd and 3rd :--)
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
You should know, if you can't get the bike to shift smoothly, even when you are allowing the rpm's to drop some, then something is wrong. Most common problem is that the clutch needs to be adjusted, and/or, the engine is idling too high. Or try shifting slower.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
The only experience I have is with my automatic 06 chevy impala LT I have never ridden or owned a Honda minibike or an ATV snowmobile or anything like that whatsoever so you may need to dumb it down for me.
That's why I inquired as to your experience/skill level in that manner. With new members, you never know from the outset...familiarization takes a while. The last thing I want to do is offend, or sit in judgment of anyone. So, please, don't let's call this "dumbing down" anything. Everyone here started out completely ignorant, myself included. Asking questions, along with trial and error testing, is the route to expertise. It took me a mere 50 years to reach this level of derangement...ummm..."expertise":whistle: So-o-o-o consider this for what it is, a learning process. We just need to back-up-the-bus a little, to an earlier stop, and allow you easy boarding, not "dumb anything down".

I'll not repeat what's already been posted. However, I suggest that you begin your rider training at low speed and away from traffic. At 5mph and on unpaved surfaces, it's all but impossible to hurt any clutch/tranny parts...or lose control of the bike. Maybe limit speeds to 15-20mph, until you've gained enough "feel" for how the bike operates...then gradually transition to normal road speeds. It might take you an afternoon...or a month of afternoons. Either way, don't sweat it, take this at your own pace. The only goal here is to learn some new-to-you riding skills, then practice them until they become "second nature". It's worth a little struggle, at the beginning. Once learned, they're never forgotten, plus you'll have the satisfaction of (what used to be) a rite-of-passage for most gearheads.;)
 

Hondasher

Member
That's why I inquired as to your experience/skill level in that manner. With new members, you never know from the outset...familiarization takes a while. The last thing I want to do is offend, or sit in judgment of anyone. So, please, don't let's call this "dumbing down" anything. Everyone here started out completely ignorant, myself included. Asking questions, along with trial and error testing, is the route to expertise. It took me a mere 50 years to reach this level of derangement...ummm..."expertise":whistle: So-o-o-o consider this for what it is, a learning process. We just need to back-up-the-bus a little, to an earlier stop, and allow you easy boarding, not "dumb anything down".

I'll not repeat what's already been posted. However, I suggest that you begin your rider training at low speed and away from traffic. At 5mph and on unpaved surfaces, it's all but impossible to hurt any clutch/tranny parts...or lose control of the bike. Maybe limit speeds to 15-20mph, until you've gained enough "feel" for how the bike operates...then gradually transition to normal road speeds. It might take you an afternoon...or a month of afternoons. Either way, don't sweat it, take this at your own pace. The only goal here is to learn some new-to-you riding skills, then practice them until they become "second nature". It's worth a little struggle, at the beginning. Once learned, they're never forgotten, plus you'll have the satisfaction of (what used to be) a rite-of-passage for most gearheads.;)
I appreciate your words of wisdom and expertise, I appreciate everyone who has thus far helped me with my bike. I have no riding experience whatsoever so with the way my mind works, I just want to ensure I'm not going to blow the motor or strip the clutch etc.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Start out, the way the rest of us did, when these bikes were new...slow & easy. The coolest aspect of small bikes is sensation of speed; initially, at least, 35mph can feel more like 135mph. It is, imho, a really happy balance, keeping boredom/frustration away while you "come-up-to-speed"...literally & figuratively. FWIW, I am 100% self-taught with bikes. The only obvious parameter separating us is time, i.e the year/decade. I don't believe that the laws of physics, or the human condition, have changed during that interval.

You might enjoy the videos posted in another folder, of this forum. They can give you some idea of how far these little machines can be taken...given sufficient time & motivation. A lot of guys just leave them, essentially, stock and have a lot of fun riding trails. My point is that it's strictly a "learn-at-your-own-pace" proposition. Take things gradually...a completely subjective call, that's yours alone to make...and you'll be fine. If that means asking for help, do it. That's why this board exists.

FYI, if something were to break...it's repairable/replaceable. 72cc Honda running gear is plentiful & inexpensive.
 
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