Doctor, I've got no pulse!

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
If you're just trying to get the speedo out of the hl shell, you only have to press down on the spring steel clip...bottom of your pic, then push it straight out.
 

airblazer

Active Member
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If you're just trying to get the speedo out of the hl shell, you only have to press down on the spring steel clip...bottom of your pic, then push it straight out.

Yep, that’s all I’m looking to do - definitely not interested in the learning curve Racerx described. The old headlight shell must’ve been rammed into a wall or tree a long time ago, as the ragged edge is worn and aged. The bike wouldn’t start (no throttle assembly) when I got it, but I ran it down the street to make sure the speedo actually worked. Got the bike up to 10mph on my own power!
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Viewed on a tiny screen, with my aging vision, it looked like you photographed the speedo on a bench, face-down. Like kirrbby said, just compress the two spring clips while pushing the speedometer upward. You may find this easier to do, using a screwdriver to move one of the spring clips.
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Oh ya...TWO spring clips. lol. Forgot about that nother one.
I think that nother one is easier, is the other mother that I usually cuss at. :)
 

airblazer

Active Member
Viewed on a tiny screen, with my aging vision, it looked like you photographed the speedo on a bench, face-down.

Your perspective is correct sir - you still got it! I posted an old the picture of the “complete” bike afterwards to illustrate the damage to the shell. As always, thanks for your your advice!
 

airblazer

Active Member
I cannot get the handlebar knobs to budge. Obviously the left knob came off the bolt in my attempt. I’ve since put vice grips on as tight as I could get them and stripped the ridges on the knob bolt. I’m going to get a spanner wrench and try loosening the nuts instead. Will this cause the bolts to loosen? Will I damage the threads in the holder? I couldn’t care less about the handlebars, they are junk. But the holder on my bike has holes drilled through it where the PO attached bicycle handlebars and an ATV throttle. Any tips or advice appreciated. Thanks!
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69ST

Well-Known Member
I'm a little surprised that Vise grips didn't work for you. I've had no trouble using them to break rust-welded studs...which is what is going to happen (99% certainty). That's the cleanest removal method, when the entire knob unit has to be replaced. When the associated handlebar is scrap metal, too, it's the preferred method.

I'd clamp the f****d handlebar securely in a vise, get the Vise grips as tight as possible on the stud end, then reef on that mofo (technical term;))... i.e. apply a ton of torque. The M8 stud should break-off, and pretty cleanly, at the handlebar threads...where the metal has been weakened by rust. If you're unable to make this method work, then the next best solution would be carefully cutting the head of the stud. After that, the handlebar can be pulled straight out.

FYI, even if you have the proper spanner to unscrew the steel nut from the triple tree, it won't do you any good. Only way to remove the nuts without major scarring is with a spanner socket, or wrench. Without it say goodbye to the handlebar nut(s).
 

airblazer

Active Member
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Finally got around to reefing on this mofo:LOL:
I took a hacksaw to the left stud and was able to snap the right one with channel locks. The handlebars are junk; the handlebar holder and nuts were all I was trying to salvage. Fork legs are up next. Finally, some real progress!
 

airblazer

Active Member
I’m planning on dissecting and cleaning my carb in the next couple days. Would all who read this please provide a referral for a quality carb rebuild kit? There are too many options on the internet to determine what quality I will get and for what price. Thanks in advance!
 

airblazer

Active Member
I’m working on tear down of my carb. I’ve gotten it all taken apart with the exception of removing the float. Does the pin it hinges on tap out? I’m historically too rough with things and don’t want to reef on an original Keihin if I can avoid it. I have it soaking in cleaner right now. Thanks in advance for your advice.
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kirrbby

Well-Known Member
If all is well that pin will slide out easily. If it's sticky, use a tiny punch to get it moving. I've used a small sized nail set, or a sharp point drywall screw works too. Once it's out a bit, you can grab it with needlenose, gentle twist and pull it out.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
If you are going to use a punch or other impact method...support the casting and use minimal force.

All you really need do is get the pin moving. Once there's enough length exposed to grab with pliers time to switch tools.

These castings are fragile and extremely brittle.
 

Gary

Well-Known Member
I would destroy the floats to remove them from the shaft first before trying to move the pin. You break a pin support, the carb is junk. Get the float off then you can lube the pin maybe even heat it up and carefully work it with a pliers
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
If you are going to use a punch or other impact method...support the casting and use minimal force.

All you really need do is get the pin moving. Once there's enough length exposed to grab with pliers time to switch tools.

These castings are fragile and extremely brittle.

X2
Usually all it takes is a few taps with the butt end of a screwdriver on the punch. If you need more than that, be very careful.
If you're going to use heat, don't heat the floats, they can pop.
 

Adam-NLV

Well-Known Member
I’m historically too rough with things and don’t want to reef on an original Keihin if I can avoid it.
Me too, the very first time I removed my k3 clutch basket, it came off in two pieces! So yep, put away the hammer and Vice Grips.:p
I would use oil, a bright light and needle nose pliers. Vice grips will get it out though!:LOL:
 
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airblazer

Active Member
Thanks for all the input guys. Before my request for advice I had tapped it lightly 3-4 times with an awl and a small hammer, but became concerned with damaging the posts and the crude tools I was using. That’s when I put it in a bowl of cleaner, asked for help, and moved on to fixing the sprinklers in the front yard - my least favorite project :mad:
 

airblazer

Active Member
A few more well-supported taps and the pin finally came loose - I didn’t even break the float! I have a rebuild kit so reassembly will happen once I get what looks like crusty mineral deposits out of the bowl.
 
That’s when I put it in a bowl of cleaner, asked for help, and moved on to fixing the sprinklers in the front yard - my least favorite project :mad:

I'll take sprinklers over weed whacking any day of the week... weed whacking, the chore I hate most, think I'll start whacking weeds with napalm and Agent Orange, LOL. :cautious:
 
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