Ct70 with Nice 110 - considering installing a ct110 motor

RMHRC

RMHRC

Member
racerx said:
The primary difference is in the bar clamp. The slots into which the locating tabs seat are "reclocked", to rotate the bars slightly outward compared to the K0. Thus, any pair of these bars will have a larger grip width, as installed, in K1-78 bar clamps than they would into K0.
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so bob âre you saying that KO bars fitted to a K1 clamp will create the wider feel ?

as I’ve fitted 72 model forks does that mean my bars will be wider as a result of the 72 top clamp on the 72 forks ?

Correct me if I’m wrong but a 72 model top clamp will not work on a 71 model fork will it? Or will it?
 
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6

69ST

Well-Known Member
RMHRC said:
so bob âre you saying that KO bars fitted to a K1 clamp will create the wider feel ?

as I’ve fitted 72 model forks does that mean my bars will be wider as a result of the 72 top clamp on the 72 forks ?

Correct me if I’m wrong but a 72 model top clamp will not work on a 71 model fork will it? Or will it?
Click to expand...

No just a wider feel...the bars are substantially farther apart in the K1-78 clamp. K0 & K1 top trees are not really interchangeable. K0 is a one piece aluminum casting, top tree/bar clamp and is much thicker than the 2-piece stamped steel top tree + cast aluminum bar clamp of the K1. I don't recall ever seeing someone retrofitting a K1 top tree on a K0 (pogo stick) fork. I'm sure it could be done; probably have to machine some spacer/bushings to get the fitment right.
 
RMHRC

RMHRC

Member
racerx said:
No just a wider feel...the bars are substantially farther apart in the K1-78 clamp. K0 & K1 top trees are not really interchangeable. K0 is a one piece aluminum casting, top tree/bar clamp and is much thicker than the 2-piece stamped steel top tree + cast aluminum bar clamp of the K1. I don't recall ever seeing someone retrofitting a K1 top tree on a K0 (pogo stick) fork. I'm sure it could be done; probably have to machine some spacer/bushings to get the fitment right.
Click to expand...

so fitting the 72 forks (and 72 top clamp) means I’ should have the wider feel bars? (Recall my bike started as a 71 and I fitted72 model forks)

what I’m saying is that I don’t need to buy 72 bars as well do I to get the wider feel?
 
RMHRC

RMHRC

Member
Bob or any guru

will this fit on my ct70 with nice 110 4 speed?

A2EBE19B-54C4-4ECE-9403-EB0239D43E1D.png
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Can't answer that without knowing your required specs: end ferrules, fittings, overall length, inner cable stick-out length. The handlebar/lever and cable mount, at the engine, all affect both lengths.

I still have the last cable I used on my red bike, with the stock LH lever & perch assembly. However, the bracket at the engine end may place the cable at a different distance from the bellcrank. Thus, I can't guarantee that the cable from another Nice-powered CT70 with the same handlebar/lever assembly will fit yours.

Postage from the US will cost you more than the cable. If possible, find a domestic source for a custom cable, it'll get you the right fitment on the first try and for less money.
 
RMHRC

RMHRC

Member
racerx said:
Can't answer that without knowing your required specs: end ferrules, fittings, overall length, inner cable stick-out length. The handlebar/lever and cable mount, at the engine, all affect both lengths.

I still have the last cable I used on my red bike, with the stock LH lever & perch assembly. However, the bracket at the engine end may place the cable at a different distance from the bellcrank. Thus, I can't guarantee that the cable from another Nice-powered CT70 with the same handlebar/lever assembly will fit yours.

Postage from the US will cost you more than the cable. If possible, find a domestic source for a custom cable, it'll get you the right fitment on the first try and for less money.
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Thanks bob
I have a shipping consolidator in California. So shipping ain’t bad

on a stock 70 clutch what’s the distance from the bracket/stopper to the clutch arm?
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
I've no idea. Honestly, with stock-type lower ends...everything up to 124cc it's just a stock-type clutch cable, plug & play so no thought given as to cable dimensions.

Have to say, however, that an H-model cable perch is much closer to the bellcrank, no more than ~20mm.
 
RMHRC

RMHRC

Member
Whats the view on trail buddy aluminium rims for the CT70?

Do they weigh significantly less than stock CT rims?

Reason I ask is normally alloy rims are the go to rim for handling and strength and wondered if I buy some TB alu rims whether it would make the bike handle better (as the wheel would weight less)
 
fatcaaat

fatcaaat

Well-Known Member
For those wondering, I talked with Hagon UK regarding Shocks. A pair of Slimline 2810 with chrome springs is 172GPB with 69 more in shipping. THey will spring them however you want for that price.
 
fatcaaat

fatcaaat

Well-Known Member
racerx said:
As I recall, you went with 18kg/cm springs
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That is correct...interestingly enough for my weight, they told me I should use 16KG/CM springs on my suzuki GS450S. I'm planning on ordering a set for it and possibly a set for my Norton with one purchase.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
RMHRC said:
Any views on alloy rims? Do they handle better? As durable ?
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There's more to this than simply the alloy, i.e. steel vs aluminum. Split rims vs tubeless, 10" vs 12", cast vs stamped...as well as the aluminum alloys used. Aluminum is softer than steel, anything made from a cheap alloy, especially a thin stamping, is going to be weaker than stock. Castings tend to be thicker and made from harder (and more brittle) alloys, thus they can be strong...but also heavy. Castings, which are usually tubeless, tend to have better concentricity than stock, since they're machined. The primary advantages of aluminum wheels: less mass, choice of widths, aesthetics. The lighter the tire + wheel assembly, the more responsive the suspension and the less sensitive to imbalance.

Then, there are the hubs to consider...
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
No idea, they look lightweight. I've remained on the G`Craft/Takegawa/Kitaco side of the fence. 6061, or similar, high-strength alloy...nearly twice the up-front cost. If I were you, I'd look through the Web!ke catalog. You're a good 10,000 miles closer to Japan than I am, should save you a tidy sum on shipping...which would balance the delivered cost, not to mention shortening the delivery time.
 
fatcaaat

fatcaaat

Well-Known Member
FYI, for those interested...i purchased two sets of Hagon 2810 shocks, slimline, with chrome spring. Total came to 525 shipped from UK.
 
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