2 ct70's on Rincon Trail (Central CA)

Excndez

Member
This is a short ride report from a ride me and a buddy did yesterday. I posted the original on a forum where the riders are familar with the Rincon Trail. The trail is really challenging on a regular BIG motorcycle and is 19 miles on way with elevation changes from 3,000'-6000' plus. We had a really good time.

Well Howie and I did it. We each rode a honda trail 70 UP Rincon Trail. This is my attempt at a ride report.

We started out on Kern River rd.



The weather was perfect probably @65-70. Here is the bridge below Salmon Falls. The switchback with the step up rocks after this bridge were actually pretty easy on theses little bikes.



Here is the rock step up switchback.



Here we are at the top of the first saddle. I thought I was going to die pushing and clawing my way to the top of the first ridge on this little bike. The thing would probably climb a tree if you can keep the front end down.



We were the first ones to ride Rincon in quite a while. There were numerous dead fall trees across the trail.



This is what we found on all the north facing slopes. It also prevented us from riding Rincon back down because there was no way we getting back up these snow covered hills.





We had lunch at Rincon Camp. We had also crossed some pretty big creeks just before this. It was interesting on a bike with a seat height less than 3 feet tall. I didn't get any pictures. Here is the trail just above Rincon Camp. There used to be another sign here that said trail maintained by Dave and Javi of KTM Talk.



Here is the upper part of Rincon. Durwood was impassable so we turned back.



We rode the trail back down to Rincon Camp and jumped on Sherman Pass Rd back to the truck. Had to cross this again.



So you ask why did we do it? Why not? It was a lot of work but at the same time one of the most fun times I've had on a motorcycle. We will be doing the Big Bear Run in June this year on these bikes and have a real shot at going the distance.
 
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69ST

Well-Known Member
Excendz said:
...So you ask why did we do it?...
Anyone who needs to ask that question is never going to understand, or accept, the answer.

Incredible scenery, no crowds (not even a proverbial 3rd rider), sunshine and a chance to give bike & rider and good workout in the process, what's not to like? Great snapshots, too:4:

There's one more learning experience of which you might avail yourself. Remove one of the wheels from your bike & disassemble the rim. These split rims are like check valves for water and very effective at that. If you find water inside, then you'll know to perform one extra maintenance task after riding through water.
 

Excndez

Member
Thanks for the tip on the water inside the rims. I don't usully worry about that on my big bikes and didn't even give it a thought on the ct's.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Your big bikes don't have split rims. Tubeless rims, almost by definition, are completely sealed. With spoked rims, air pressure keeps the inner tube tightly against the protective rubber strip sealing-out moisture. CT70 split rims allow water to easily get inside with no way to escape and very little, if any, air circulation...so no evaporative drying either. That's why 95% of used rims have varying degrees of rust, especially in the bead seats. They sometimes rust through.

I can't really think of any effective means to seal the rim halves, as an assembly. They do need solid, mechanical, contact with each other, for strength. That makes sealing 16 holes, plus the inner circumference, a world-class challenge.

Until such time as someone creates a viable gasket, to go between the rim halves, pulling them apart & drying them out is the most effective/efficient to prevent rusting. When there's no rust, it's not a difficult task.
 

fatcaaat

Well-Known Member
Whenever I assemble split rims, I always use a bead of silicon. Been doing it for 10 years now. Works out great.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Whenever I assemble split rims, I always use a bead of silicon. Been doing it for 10 years now. Works out great.

Sorry for the threadjack...

Jarred, are you applying a thin film to the entire bolt flange area or just a circumferential bead, below the bolt hole cicrle? How does this affect dis-assembly & reassembly? I'm guessing that the silicone is a one-shot deal and has to be reapplied, after the old sealer has been removed, each time the rim halves come apart.
 
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