71K0 just brought out of a LOOONNGG storage.

[cjpayne]

Got the head assembly done. New T-chain and all that.



Kevin bought some new discs/springs for the clutch, so I removed the cover and got a bit of a surprise. The screws had definitely been hitting something, but from what? The inside of the cover just had a small scrape.


Up on closer inspection, I discovered the shifter arm had been straightened with what looks to have been a vise. I guess the shift shaft had been hit during a wreck and bent the arm. I bet that made a whole lotta noise until it was "fixed".lol. The rest of the arm assembly is a little warped on the corners too. Good thing I have another whole assembly.
Don't know if you can see the vise bite marks in these pics, but they are there for sure. I have a K3 clutch somewhere. Does anyone know if those screws will work for replacements? I'm thinking they will.


When I was messing with the bike before disassembly, I shifted it through all the gears and the tranny seemed fine. Of course it wasn't running at the time.

 

[69ST]

Shift shaft assemblies are a dime a dozen on the `bay. Dunno if you really need to replace the scarred clutch screws. They are fugly but the business portions of those heads look okay. FWIW, I'd bite the bullet and source the correct, OEM, screws from dratv. I assume that you're going to use flat allens for the oil spinner anyway...and those are a different story from the other 4 screws in the clutch.

That motor is looking nice!

 

[cjpayne]

I think I have 2 or 3 of those shift shaft assemblies, so that shouldn't be any problem-luckily. Some weeks ago I accidentally ordered some 5mm JIS screws when I meant to get some 6mm. I think I was half asleep.lol. Anyway, I looked through them and found the four 5x8's I needed.


Since those screws were marred so bad, I couldn't get a phillips to even fit. I ended up getting them loose with a pair of visegrips, barely. The set screws actually came out pretty easy and yes, they're getting replaced with allens. The spinner is filthy and someone was definitely in there before. There's slot screwdrivier/hammer scarring pretty bad on the clutch nut. I'm sure I have a better used one somewhere. For some reason my gasket kit didn't come with a spinner cover gasket:47:


Thanks for the compliment, it really helps.

 

[69ST]

There's usually enough material for Vise grips to save the day, with those. It's the spinner cover screws that cause migraines.

Agreed, that spinner was overdue for a cleaning. But, look at the upside... it's been cleaned previously at least once. I've seen worse.:43:

 

[cjpayne]

Got the damaged screws replaced and clutch rebuilt with new OEM springs/plate's. Also put in some allens for the spinner cover.



Got the complete shift assembly replaced. BTW, kirrbby's wood box dimensions are PERFECT for these motors when working on them. Thanks kirrbby!!!



Got the clutch cover blasted/repainted/installed with new OEM kicker seal, O-ring, and new OEM JIS screws.



When I was looking for shifter parts, I came across these polished caps. Forgot I had them, so on they go. The originals were a bit weathered anyway.

 

[cjpayne]

Got the motor in and stator plugged. Still has a no spark issue. I already replaced the points and sparkplug twice. I know I have a condenser somewhere. May try that later or go ahead and install a jumper wire setup while the aircleaner is still out.

 

[cjpayne]

Discovered my neighbor does a little polishing work on the side. Was wondering how I was going to get these done. Since I gave his daughter a Z50, he was happy to help out.lol. Whew! He's no racerx or hornetgod by far, but it was great to get this done.

 

[cjpayne]

Got the engine guard and NOS exhaust with original guard installed.


Replaced the condensor, installed a jumper wire, and still have a no spark issue. Waiting on a primary coil now. Been thinking of robbing my K1 of the entire stator assembly just to see what would happen.

 

[cjpayne]

Okay, installed the primary coil. No spark. Checked and rechecked all the grounds. Checked connections. I've already replaced the condenser, points(rechecked also), sparkplug(twice), and ran a hotwire to the coil. I'm thinking about mounting another HTcoil to the engine guard where it bolts to the frame on the right side, then hotwiring it to the stator. I doubt its the HTcoil, but I'm out of ideas.

 

[cjpayne]

I'm thinking about mounting another HTcoil to the engine guard where it bolts to the frame on the right side, then hotwiring it to the stator.

I used a known good HTcoil. Still no spark. Hmmmm......I guess it must be the new points or new condensor. Both OEM's. Never had that happen before.

 

[allenp42]

For what's it worth, I recently installed a brand new set of points......and had to sand them several times before they would "close".

 

[69ST]

At this stage of the process, I'd want to check both coils, directly, using an ohmmeter.

 

[bklopsy]

Have you checked the ignition ground?

 

[cjpayne]

For what's it worth, I recently installed a brand new set of points......and had to sand them several times before they would "close".

I reset them to .013 to make sure I wasn't over gapping them by accident, but will sand the contacts a little. Thanks

At this stage of the process, I'd want to check both coils, directly, using an ohmmeter.

Uninstalled? What should I get for a good one? I assume you mean the primary's.

Have you checked the ignition ground?

The system is hotwired and bypassing the ignition/wiring.

My K1 is looking to be the stator assembly donor at this point, just to isolate the problem, but that will be the usual PITA

 

[smitfire]

i think I read this right, but don't take a good running bike apart to try fix another one. I think you were thinking about taking the stator off one to put on another.
Just never a good idea, something breaks, or gets stripped out. Just my opinion.

 

[allenp42]

The ignition coil should measure ~1.5 to 1.8 ohms. The lighting coils measure in the range of 0.7 to 0.9 ohms. You may see some variation due to the type of ohm meter you have, because these values are just a notch above a "short circuit" in DC land.

Just make sure that the coils are not "open" or "shorted". Open is easy to see. On the "shorted" end, make sure that have more resistance than what shows when you touch your meter leads together.

Are you using a digital ohm meter or an analog meter? Hopefully you have a DVM for this check.

 

[69ST]

You don't have to remove the coils and I wouldn't. Might be easier to remove the flywheel first though. Block the points open with paper, or thin cardboard and disconnect the modular plug. The values in the previous post are slightly different from what I remember but, the difference is so slight it's not worth worrying about...plus it depends upon the source one uses. You might perform these tests on your known, running, engine; those values should be reliable & repeatable, since it uses your meter. If there's a shorted-out winding, or an open circuit, you'll know.

BTW, with the HT coil, you want to check resistance between the primary & secondary leads. You also want to check for continuity between each lead and the coil ground; that would indicate a short circuit.

 

[kirrbby]

BTW CJ, feel free to take a few pics and do a how-to thread on the subject :becky:

 

[allenp42]

I had some time today to work on my HK0 project and continued with my quest "to check everything". In the process of checking the ignition coil, the primary was fine (~2 ohms) but the secondary (hi-voltage side) was as intermittent as they come. Found it. By the way, the side that has the spark plug (secondary) measures ~9.3K ohms.....without the nail repair -

 

[cjpayne]

I finally found the problem. Boy did I feel like a dumbass!!!lol. Was OHM probing around as Bob suggested and came across something unusual. The lead going to the points was not conducting TO the points contact. I soon realized that I had placed the lead in between the insulator and the body of the points bracket, not between the insulator and metal washer. I corrected this and I got tons of spark. This pic is crappy, but look close and you'll see the mistake.



I then unhooked my makeshift HTcoil and rehotwired the original. It works.