71K0 just brought out of a LOOONNGG storage.

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Could someone please post a pic(s) of what the shift fork tips are supposed to like? TIA
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
These are both new. They are the same part. One measures 4.9 the other is 5.9mm

??
a29215a209734f281949c00cfb402b28.jpg6736de96c860da8b67c738edfa1d4dc2.jpg483c73901ab0cdde1d0092bc2e2b4a21.jpgebffbfc032606289d2c1ee233c0c24b6.jpgde0e3e92ac15ffe0ee41c8564a6fdc2e.jpg6171963c7e15b6e3c996cdf797cbcb95.jpg
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
I've done quite a bit, but I'm still learning AND have a long way to go. Before you go tearing apart a matching engine to a bike, get a stray engine or two, then dive into one and get it running. Mistakes will be made and parts will be lost.lol. I've been into car engines before with no real problems, but these little engines are like opening up a Swiss watch to me. I'm actually STILL intimidated by them.lol. You really have to identify/learn the tiny details.
 
Last edited:

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
It had a broke tooth alright. I also located the broken piece. Rest of the tranny looks fine, but still need to break the calipers back out and do some inspection/clean up.

IMGA1679.jpgIMGA1680.jpgIMGA1681.jpg
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
You're well on your way to a first-rate rebuild. It is possible to simply replace the broken gear and be done. If it were mine, I'd prefer to replace the gears as a matched pair (NOS, or good used); there's a chance that the one with all of its teeth sustained a little damage that's hard to see. Damaged 3-speed gears are few and far between, translation...easy to source & cheap.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
You're well on your way to a first-rate rebuild. It is possible to simply replace the broken gear and be done. If it were mine, I'd prefer to replace the gears as a matched pair (NOS, or good used); there's a chance that the one with all of its teeth sustained a little damage that's hard to see. Damaged 3-speed gears are few and far between, translation...easy to source & cheap.
I checked the rest of the tranny and it was just fine. Your right, I simply just replaced the third gear. I expected to see alot more damage and bent shafts or something. Got it back together and just took it for a test drive. Goes aong fine and hit 40mph. For some reason the timing chain seemed a little tight going back in. I had already replaced it with a D.I.D. when I had messed with this bike before. I think the spring loaded tensioner is sticking/stuck. I will take a look at it tomorrow when I change the oil.

BTW, I kinda felt a little victorious after having a tranny apart, put back together, and it actually works.:yahoo:
 
Last edited:

69ST

Well-Known Member
A lot of timing chains start out really tight...even without the idler making contact. You got it installed without damage, the engine is running right. I'd do no more than you're planning to do. It'll develop enough slack in a few miles. Mo`better to start out at the snug limit, than a lot looser, imho.

As for that victorious feeling, you earned it!:thumb:
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Thanks. When I was initially putting it back together, I ran into a problem. I put the primary gear on, tried to spin it back and forth, but it would only spin one way. Took it back off and spun the CS while moving the shifter arm to shift through the gears. It was making a slight clunk, clunk, sound. I tried it again and again. Split the cases back apart a couple times. Started thinking, "I probably shouldn't have attempted this. What did I screw up? Go check the pics!!!." LUCKILY, I took alot of pics. I noticed the kickshaft assembly wasn't "clocked" like it was before. Sure enough it wasn't positioned right at all. lol.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Thanks. When I was initially putting it back together, I ran into a problem. I put the primary gear on, tried to spin it back and forth, but it would only spin one way. Took it back off and spun the CS while moving the shifter arm to shift through the gears. It was making a slight clunk, clunk, sound. I tried it again and again. Split the cases back apart a couple times. Started thinking, "I probably shouldn't have attempted this. What did I screw up? Go check the pics!!!." LUCKILY, I took alot of pics. I noticed the kickshaft assembly wasn't "clocked" like it was before. Sure enough it wasn't positioned right at all. lol.

But...you did check your work before buttoning-up everything, while the correction was still easy. That's how it's done and a classic example of what I mean when I say that taking extra time, to be thorough, can compensate for lack of experience. All that matters is the end result, right? Speed will come with experience. If you end up going through too few to get "expert" proficiency, you won't have many extra hours worth of sweat equity invested. That's a fair bargain either way, i.e. can't lose, imo.

And, all of the above having been said, I betcha don't make this same mistake again. Think of it as a low-cost lesson in CT0 engine building.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
But...you did check your work before buttoning-up everything, while the correction was still easy. That's how it's done and a classic example of what I mean when I say that taking extra time, to be thorough, can compensate for lack of experience. All that matters is the end result, right? Speed will come with experience. If you end up going through too few to get "expert" proficiency, you won't have many extra hours worth of sweat equity invested. That's a fair bargain either way, i.e. can't lose, imo. And, all of the above having been said, I betcha don't make this same mistake again. Think of it as a low-cost lesson in CT0 engine building.
Your right. What really made me nervous, was the fact that this is someone else's bike and I'm responsible for it.lol The first time I started into this bike, I had no idea the tranny was bad. That was probably a blessing in disguise, because had I known, I would have most likely talked Kevin into farming the engine out. But then I would've never gained the experience. I've also really enjoyed preserving and cleaning up this little K0 into a reliable decent rider. It can be enjoyed and ridden without worrying about getting a little dirty. Just don't hang it up wet, IMO. I also like bikes that, at a moments notice after sitting a couple months, can be roadtripped reliably.
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Here it is all back together and draining its oil after the test runs. Accelerates pretty good, no leaks(fingers crossed), all the lights work, charging correctly, drives right, and isn't getting hot. Horn still doesn't work.lol

IMGA1684.jpg
 
Last edited:

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
Must have spoke to soon about no leaks. Kevin rode it a bit, then we put it in the back of the truck. After awhile, I noticed oil drip on the pickup bed. Thought for sure it was the case halves. Removed the guard this morning and discovered oil coming from the base of the cylinder jug. Can't tell if it's coming from the oilpump side, the return side, or both. Not sure what happened. Maybe I shouldn't have reused the old(but new) gasket. It didn't stick to anything when it was initially removed. I did trim the excess case gasket off. Cleaned both surfaces with Berrymans. Is it possible that I didn't get the cases square with each other to where the base case surface is level? I would think that's what the case dowels are for. Head bolts are torqued to spec.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Assuming no damage to the mating surfaces, the most likely causes: leftover old gasket material (i.e. surfaces not perfectly prepped), O-ring missing/out-of-place or...drum roll pleeez...the gasket took a set and should not have been reused.
 
Top