And so it begins...

[Mellis4949]

It actually came that way, and since it fit, I initially didn't pick up on the fact that it was "wrong". Of course, the fact that it didn't work was the real kicker!

Looking back on my Amazon order, the one I received (with the two pre-drilled holes in the bracket) is not what is pictured. However, the item on Amazon clearly states that it is Hitachi and that it won't work with Mitsubishi...

I hadn't found this forum at the point that I ordered it and didn't realize there were different types...just that the conventional wisdom is that points and condenser were a good place to start. Live and learn!

For those of you fellow Newbies out there, I started off ordering CT70 parts on Amazon, but now based on what I have received (wrong condenser, wrong coil), I am now exclusively purchasing from the sites mentioned on here (Trail Buddy, DRatv, etc.) because it ends up being more effective and efficient to do so. Despite starting off wanting to save money and buying parts as cheaply as possible, I have learned a bit of a lesson here.

I just got the shipment notification and my parts will be here by the end of the week! Thanks allenp42.

 

[Tripod]

NEVC and DRATV and you wont go wrong.

 

[69ST]

A lot of folks don't understand that there's a difference between price and cost. Once the time, miles and mistakes accumulate, the balance usually shifts...and quality stuff with bigger price tags, or at least the right parts in one shot, ends up costing less than the "cheaper" stuff.

 

[Mellis4949]

Hello! I've been stalled out for the last 3 months because I'm stumped and can't get spark. I'm a total newbie with no experience, so it is possible I am missing something obvious. I welcome any and all thoughts and suggestions!

Mitsubishi stator, new points and condenser. I believe the gap is correct. New coil that matches the original. Here is a short video that captures where I am...

 

[lukelaw1]

Hard to see from the video, but it looks like your on the yellow wire. That is lighting circuit. The Black is ignition.

 

[Mellis4949]

@lukelaw1 you are right! So at some point with my light bulb tester, I had probed all 4 prongs out of the engine connector, and the (only) one that made the light bulb light was the one I ASSumed was "the one".

This is what my wires look like. The color is a little washed out by the lighting in the picture, but I was a bit thrown off not knowing if the color of the wires was referring to the plastic cover on the wire itself, or the outer (nylon?) frayed part... I guess that is where I tested and then just stuck with the only one that made the bulb light up (and not realizing at the time that two of them should be "hot". The light green one with the red stripe is the neutral indicator that isn't used (loose in the background) I think due to an engine swap that happened before me.

Okay, so this is progress, however small. I pulled the flywheel back off and here are some pics of the stator/points/condenser. I am guessing that even though I did new points and condenser, there is either still a bad component, or faulty workmanship!

Not sure if those pictures are good enough, but is there anything obvious out of sorts here? I think I adjusted the points correctly when the flywheel was on, but there seems to be very little clearance between the points and the adjustment screw (which is quite goobered up). I sure do appreciate it!

 

[lukelaw1]

how did you exactly set the points gap?

also read up on this post
https://lilhonda.com/index.php?threads/ct70h-mitsubishi-stator-rebuild.21607/page-4

 

[Mellis4949]

I just read back through the recommended post (thanks @lukelaw1) and now it is time for me, with my limited electrical/tester knowledge, to try to test the primary ignition coil. I only have an analog multimeter and I am not exactly sure what I am doing. I only have settings for x1k or x10 Ohms and I think I am looking for a reading of 2.1-2.3 but honestly I'm unsure what I am doing. Do I need to remove the coil and unsolder it in order to test?

As for setting the points - with the flywheel on, at the T mark (maximum open for the points) I loosened the screw and attempted to stick my feeler gauge through the slot (using .35mm). This was a challenge for a few reasons. First, my feeler gauge has a slightly bent tip, and it didn't line up well with the angle of the slot to be able to fit between the points. Second, the gauge was a bit too wide it seems, and finally, I noticed that when I went to tighten down the screw, it messed up the adjustment. Overall my confidence in the accuracy of this is low. The other thing I noticed is that with the points adjusted as they are, there is very little clearance between the top and the adjustment screw. I think the points can open as far as they need to, but if they needed to open more they would come into contact with the screw. You can kind of see this in the first of the two pics I uploaded previously.

I loosened the two coils and looked around at the wires but didn't otherwise see anything out of place.

 

[lukelaw1]

I wouldn't tear anything any farther apart yet, i dont feel confident that point are set correctly. I have tried to set the points as you described and had a hard time also. I typically set the points so they just begin to open at the F mark rotating flywheel counter clock wise. Then once I get the bike running I set them with an automotive timing light.

Lets make sure points are opening at the f mark and closing properly. Then see if you can get the the test light to flicker when kicking motor over.

 

[cjpayne]

If your not used to it, setting the points can be frustrating, as it was for me, but here's a few tips to make it easier. Get another set of feeler gauges just for your bike. Take the .016 and grind the sides off to where its about 1/4in wide, then debur. When grinding, dont go full straight grind, but at an angle to about 1 1/2in to the sides. This wiil help with the side clearances. Also, put a slight bend down about 1/4in from the tip. When tightening the little screw, you will have to get it tight enough that the points will move when you set it, but not move out of adjustment when you go to tighten. That just takes some getting used too. You will also find that if you get that little screw too tight, that it can or will strip out when you go loosen it next time. If you can't adjust the points to .016 on the "T", then they are wore out and you need a new OEM one. BTW, having a special set of feeler gauges for your bike is ideal, as you can also put a 75degree angle(about 1/2in) on the .002 and .003 for your valves. BTW #2, if you set your points at .016, it will idle, but when you give it throttle, it stalls out. That means you went too far or it moved when the screw was tightened. Just check the gap after tightening. The gauge should lightly scrape both the contact points at a horizontal level.

 

[cjpayne]

Can't remember who it was here, but someone posted about getting another flywheel and cutting the outer magneto off just for setting points. I thought about getting another one, but I don't want to buy and sacrifice a perfectly good H flywheel.lol. Also the flywheel cam would have to perfectly match the diameter of the one I run.

 

[Gary]

You could just remove the points cam and use it to accomplish the same thing. That way you would not ruin anything- it could be put back and used

 

[Mellis4949]

I am so excited - I have spark! I was really getting frustrated and overthinking things it turns out. Finally some progress, though the big breakthrough was that I located a previous repair to the black wire from the stator with a loose connection in here:

Doh! I sorta feel dumb for not having caught that earlier. It was all wrapped up in black tape and I didn't think to check. But, everything is a learning experience. I got a little more confidence using the multimeter and checking basic continuity from one end of the wire to the other. Hey, I'll take the win! So once I got that all connected the spark was there. I was then able to put in a new wiring harness and the gas tank.

I do still need to work on setting the points more precisely (thanks @cjpayne for the tips). I have two sets of feeler gauges, so I am going to set one up like you describe. I'm not sure if what I have currently will fire the engine, but I'm excited to give it a shot! I'll need to adjust the valves too, so there is still some work to do, and I am looking forward to it.

I really appreciate the sound counsel you gentlemen have been providing. I feel like this breakthrough is allowing me to think things through a little better - there is a logical flow of how these machines operate, and as I work through the various systems and components, I am learning their functions and essentially teaching myself a new skill. It is kind of like solving the puzzle and I find it to be very fulfilling and rewarding. I can't wait to ride one of these little bikes again! I am sure I will have more questions as I run into things...

 

[Mellis4949]

Setting the points can be frustrating, as it was for me, but here's a few tips to make it easier. Get another set of feeler gauges just for your bike. Take the .016 and grind the sides off to where its about 1/4in wide, then debur. When grinding, don't go full straight grind, but at an angle to about 1 1/2in to the sides. This will help with the side clearances. Also, put a slight bend down about 1/4in from the tip. When tightening the little screw, you will have to get it tight enough that the points will move when you set it, but not move out of adjustment when you go to tighten. That just takes some getting used to. You will also find that if you get that little screw too tight, that it can or will strip out when you go loosen it next time. If you can't adjust the points to .016 on the "T", then they are wore out and you need a new OEM one. BTW, having a special set of feeler gauges for your bike is ideal, as you can also put a 75degree angle(about 1/2in) on the .002 and .003 for your valves. BTW #2, if you set your points at .016, it will idle, but when you give it throttle, it stalls out. That means you went too far or it moved when the screw was tightened. Just check the gap after tightening. The gauge should lightly scrape both the contact points at a horizontal level.

@cjpayne is it possible for you to post pics of your feeler gauges? I'm willing to sacrifice my set but I'd like to see what you are talking about. Thanks for all of your input. I'd be lost without it!

 

[cjpayne]

@cjpayne is it possible for you to post pics of your feeler gauges? I'm willing to sacrifice my set but I'd like to see what you are talking about. Thanks for all of your input. I'd be lost without it!

After looking at it, I actually grinded more off of one side than the other and the tip bend is about 1/2 and inch. The other two are for checking the valves, .002in and .003 for the exhaust. With the .003 for the exhaust, it just runs cooler, especially for a fresh rebuild.