Cdi kit or stick with points

[curtie94]

So I was out for a ride on my s65 tonight. It was running mint. I did a plug chop and I had a nice dark brown plug.

All of a sudden the bike shut off. I checked the plug and it was white. But here is the weird thing I have to spark. I got a ride back home and I checked the points which are opening. But I haven't looked any more.

So now I am thinking about going to a cdi so I don't have to worry about my ignition system any more.

Has anyone done this? If so what kit would you recommend. I was looking on ebay and I noticed a coupe different ones. There was one that was $50 and it said magneto. Does that mean it has a fixed spark advance? Other then that dratv has a kit that has a cdi box. Which I assume has spark advance.

Do really I'm just wondering if the cheap kit has spark advance.

I still have to figure out why I lost spark. I tried s new plug and nothing. I also checked my writing harness and the connections where good.

Other then that I was either thinking points wire on points or the primary coil. The whole ignition system is new on my bike. Everything from the stator (primary coil, points, condenser) to the secondary coil.

 

[OLD CT]

If it has spark,I would turn the gas on and then open the bowl drain to see if fuel is flowing.

 

[curtie94]

Well it doesn't have have spark right now.

I was also thinking fuel delivery. Maybe my petcock it's clogged .

 

[curtie94]

So my points wire broke off the points.

New connection and she lives again.

I checked my float level and it was a little low. So my bowl wasn't filling as much as it should have.

 

[69ST]

Inasmuch as breaker point ignition is crude, requires attention/maintenance, it still works damned well...almost better than seems possible.

CDI conversion is more a matter of personal preferences/goals. Given my druthers, I'd go for 12v/CDI every time. 12v bulbs & batteries are easier to source, such conversions oftentimes have increased lighting output, you can add spark advance simply by choosing your CDI module and, most of all, they're 100% consistent & maintenance-free. IMO, it's almost a no-brainer...the key word being almost. That said, there's really no pressing reason to do this, so all of the purists out there, as well as those who'd just as soon leave well enough alone, relax. The old breaker point setup will remain viable for at least another couple of decades. This is merely an option.

FYI, magneto basically means no battery is required to run the engine. In fact, the higher the rpm, the higher the voltage to the plug. As for spark advance with electronic ignition, that's programmed/mapped.

As for your fueling issues, curtie, looks like that's been your problem right along. The broken lead was coincidental. Can't see you ever getting this machine running well until you get the fuel system sorted out.

 

[curtie94]

I went for a ride today and all seemed good, except at WOT it would bog, let off just a little and it picked up and pulled hard. So I am still lean at WOT, but the problem is I have a 95 in it right now, the next size i have is a 100 which is too rich.

I was looking and the next size available is a 98. Im guessing that a 98 would be fine.

Other then that I still can Not get the bike to idle well when it is hot. When the bike is cold it idles great. I wonder if my air filter could be restricted causing my idle to be rich?

If I change the needle clip position at all it runs like crap right through the rev range.

 

[Enginedoctor]

can you downsize the main and raise the needle???

have you checketh the valve clearance? it might be a tad tight preventing the bike from idling. a thought. the idle circuit may still be clogged. how does the air filter physically look?

 

[curtie94]

J could try downsizing the main and raising the needle. What size would you try 90 or 92 also what clip position?

The air filter looks a little dirty. I compressed aired it

As with the pilot circuit. I doused it with carb clean then used compressed air to blow through and it is as clean as it is going to get.

 

[dirtbkr188]

can you downsize the main and raise the needle???

Have you checketh the valve clearance? It might be a tad tight preventing the bike from idling. A thought. The idle circuit may still be clogged. How does the air filter physically look?

E D,

 

[69ST]

Sounds like you're overdue to buy a set of jet cleaning files. The pilot jet ID and emulsion tube holes are tiny, making solvent cleaning highly ineffective. Solvent is only useful on the larger parts (just about everything else in the carb) and as a final wash, after mechanically cleaning the orifices.

The the fuel level inside the bowl must be within the normal range should go without saying, otherwise adjustments will be one exercise in futility after another. The same applies to the air filter. If it's restricted, you're wasting your time.

Never underestimate the effect of jet needle height changes in these carbs. Once you get the above listed items squared away, needle height can point you in the right direction when it comes to selecting the optimal main jet size. If nothing else, going to either extreme (top or bottom groove) should tell you if you're running lean or rich.

 

[curtie94]

I have cleaned the jets and emulsion tube with jet files already. The weird thing is if I move the jet needle clip at all it won't idle.

It actually acts like an air leak. The bike will stall, and If I open the throttle the idle hangs then stalls. It doesn't matter what clip position I'm in except if I'm in the middle.

 

[Enginedoctor]

the same thing is wrong with your carb as when you originally started. you're trying to tune a carb with a problem. you need to fix the problem then you'll find it much easier. usually, when the bike stumbles off idle, it's too lean on the main jet. moving the clip down the needle (effectively moving the needle up) allows the bike to get a tad more fuel at a lower opening. if this is richening your bike to the point it won't idle, maybe screw the air screw out just a tad, but in reality, it shouldn't affect the idle mixture too much, as there's practically no flow through the main jet. the idle circuit, in reality, circumnavigates it.

i don't know what else to say. i think this information i'm giving now has become redundant to the point i'm reluctant to provide much more.

curtie you have a fuel delivery problem, especially in the area of a/f ration consistency throughout the RPM range. i've never seen a honda with a clean carb, correct cam and ignition timing, and good compression give ANYONE this much trouble.

i'm bowing out. i've said all i can say without diagnosing the bike in person.

 

[curtie94]

I'll be honest.I have just about no experience with carbeuration. This is the first can that I've had to play with this much.

I don't know what other way I can clean the carb. All the passages seem clean. The jets and emulsion tube are clean.

Like I said if I change the needle clip position the bike won't idle. I've tried adjusting the pilot screw but that didn't seem to help at all.

I'll try just about anything right now.

How would you clean the carb?

One thing that gets me is that the bike won't idle below 1700 rpm. Anything lower and it stalls.

Valves are adjusted to .002".

Mechanical Timing is spot on with tdc

Ignition timing is spot on as well.

I'm using a c7hsa plug.

It doesn't seem to be burning oil.

No air leaks at manifold or carb. I checked with carb clean.

I'm using the stock 63cc jug. Stock head with aftermarket valves.

Crankcase breather is not plugged.

I do have a oil leak from the o ring around the stator.

Like I said I'll try anything.

Curtis

 

[Enginedoctor]

http://lilhonda.com/webboard/f6/ct70-carb-rebuild-town-time-16011/?highlight=ct70+carb+rebuild+town+time

that's how i would rebuild it. open the valve clearance .001 or .002 and see if that helps. a few thousandths isn't going to hurt anything. you might hear a slight click, but if it's bleeding compression, more than likely it won't idle and it could run at higher RPMS, as there's more cylinder pressure up there when the throttle is open.

look in that thread. The Raymond Guy has a post about soaking the carb in Pine sol. strip the carb body and maybe try this. put new o rings on anything that needs to be sealed, get good compressed air, and a carb kit (if you haven't already) and just do it right. something is killing this carb. if replacing the carb yields odd results, then the issue likely lies elsewhere. But i still think it's a carburetion issue. Give it one last go round, make sure the gasket surfaces are sealed. maybe even a transparent skim coat of RTV on the paper gasket surfaces to be extra sure there's no air leak. make sure the head bolts torque down but don't strip them out. Blast the micro orifices in the carb's venturi that feed the idle circuit. hit them with compressed air.

A clean carb should run 10 times better than the bike you've been dealing with all this time. make sure there's a good fuel filter inline to the carb. any trash in there will cause further issues. trust me. i know from experience.

 

[curtie94]

Alright. Sounds good. I just put the carb in a super clean mixture with a little water to dilute it a little.

Ill let it soak overnight and then blow it clean with compressed air in the morning.

 

[dirtbkr188]

Also inquire around your local bike shops and see if any of them have an ultrasonic dip tank for cleaning carbs, and possibly give that a try.

 

[kirrbby]

You should be able to squirt carb cleaner in any hole, and see it come out of another hole, if it's clean. If you don't see it come out, it's plugged and has to be cleared. After you think its clean, check EVERY hole before you put it on the bike.

 

[curtie94]

I let the carb soak overnight then I blasted it with compressed air. The carb and jets are clean. All of the ports are clean.

It started right up bit again it wouldn't idle lower then 1700rpm. Any lower and it stalls. It doesn't matter how I adjust the pilot screw.

I'm at work now but I should have tomorrow off to take a better look.

 

[theraymondguy]

Half thought out input. Move right along.

 

[curtie94]

Just for the hell of it I decided to watch a video on setting can timing and valve adjusting.

From what I saw from the valve adjusting video I may have been adjusting the valves too tight. I'm used to adjusting valves in a car. It seems like you want almost no drag when adjusting these valves.

And on the timing. I am always half a tooth off. And from a couple videos I saw if you are half a tooth off you want to be half a tooth above not below, and guys what I'm below.

So I'm going to go do these two things and I'll let you know how it goes.