Bob, I'm not gonna sling mud. I understand that you're a painter and I respect that. I used to paint too. Look at it this way, the paint you use today is modern and in no way compares to, say, Nitrocellulose Lacquer of the old days. You're getting better results and much improved durability compared to painters even 20 years ago. Technology has evolved the painting industry to higher levels.
It's the same with powdercoat. Yes, it used to be a very industrial finish that only offered durability and not much beauty. Like your painting industry, powder has evolved greatly since that time. It's considered a "green" industry due to no solvents being released into the atmosphere and has actually been "pushed" further ahead by it's benefits about environmental impact.
The following is a quote from your own website...
Powder coating is one of the toughest finishes available. When properly applied, it offers a nearly chemical-proof, permanent finish. This system has it's own limitations. That very permanence becomes a liability should it ever become damaged or you change your mind. Powder coat is very dificult to remove and on some items cannot be removed, since it must be sanded or burned off. Burning will warp sheetmetal. On a CT70 frame it's a liability as it can never be removed. A dent or a chip will be permanent. Powder coated surfaces can look great on smaller items but, it's not as smooth as paint and cannot be color sanded & buffed. Bodywork is extremely limited as most fillers, including lead, cannot withstand the 400F curing temperature. Headlight shells are plastic and will melt, thus these cannot be powder coated. Any of the smaller, removeable, easily replaceable parts (seat pan, fenders, wheels, hubs, footpegs, tank bracket, kickstart arm, shift lever) are good candidates for powder coat. Wheel hubs must be carefully masked prior to spraying the powder. On larger pieces such as CT70 frames, fenders, or conventional motorcyle tanks, Neither paint nor powdercoat will achieve complete flow-out. The resulting finish will have orange peel and most examples we've seen have been on the dull side. We've seen collector bikes ruined when powdercoat was used to replace the original painted finish on major body parts. Paint can be colorsanded & buffed to perfection, powdercoat cannot. Place two large items, one painted, the powdercoated and there's no comparison. Powdercoat is quick, less expensive and durable, yet no serious bike or car builder or restorer uses it to replqce paint except on small, usually mechanical, parts. No OEMs do either. The reason is simple, it's impractical for sheetmetal parts and the look isn't up-to-snuff. We strongly advise against powder coating any of the painted frame-related pieces including the frame itself, swingarm, chainguard, shock covers and fork parts.
I liken your website quoted above to me stating facts about the paint industry from the 80s. That time is gone and my opinions would be outdated and no longer accurate.
I've already covered that it can be chemically stripped readily without any damage to the underlying substrate. No high temperature burn-off or extended media blasting required. It can be color sanded and buffed just like paint. It does not have to exhibit a rough finish if well applied and quality material is used.
In closing, I have never disrespected your craft or slighted the painting business in any way. I simply state the my craft is an alternative to paint if the customer desires. I don't have anything to gain by slighting your work or other painter's work. I'm pretty much a one trick pony in the Mini Trail business. I have a perfect match for Candy Ruby Red and Cloud Silver and a few others, but I can't offer the variety that a painter can and guarantee a perfect match to other OEM Honda colors. Non original colors, I have thousands to choose from and will put my quality up against paint.