When all else fails, go with the factory-stock assembly sequence. Generally speaking...and especially for roadgoing bikes, it's usually best running a "hot" intake. EFI, especially automotive OE is a world apart from carburetors and small, air cooled, engines. A reasonably complete explanation would be lengthy. Suffice it to say that there is an optimal temperature range for both intake & carburetor and maintaining that is a balancing act, between engine heat and latent heat of vaporization inside the intake & intake port. Fuel cannot burn unless it's vapor. Transforming liquid fuel to a gaseous (vapor) state functionally creates refrigeration. On a normally-aspirated, carb-fed, engine, I'd like to see intake temp somewhere between 80-150F. In the real world, that rarely happens, except at low speeds. I've run induction setups with the intake directly attached to the intake port, nothing more than an O-ring to seal it, ensuring metal-to-metal contact...carb insulated by virtue of a rubber boot/flange adapter at the carb end. In the highest ambient air temps where I ride...mid 90s...a few miles spent above 50mph leaves the intake cold to the touch, and sweating like a glass of iced tea.
I have never had an intake reach the boiling point of water. OTOH, running a cold intake...larger displacement, insulator between the head & intake...has caused running issues in ambient air temps below 70F. Throttle response becomes a little unpredictable. Much below ~55F, intake temp can drop below freezing, making the bike almost unusable. If one is a fair-weather rider, it's a non-issue.
On my '96 Trans Am there was a radiator water connection to the throttle body to aid in cold weather driveability. A common mod was to re-route the water lines to bypass the throttle body to allow for cooler air ingestion. I never noticed any cold weather running problems after modifying the plumbing.
Heating the throttle body with engine coolant, doesn't make much difference, the amount of radiating surface contacting the incoming air is minuscule. I've experience with the GM EFI of the era (`94 Z28) and custom (Lingenfelter Super Ram, using a 1000CFM GM throttle body, sans coolant flow). Ever try placing a hand on the plenum once the engine has been running for a while? It's painful to the touch, meaning 150F+. Frankly, ambient air temp has more impact on the density of the incoming charge. A cold-air inlet might give you a couple of tenths quicker ET and that's it.
