Front Fork Pipes ( not sure if that’s the right name )
- Thread starter Clayton
- Start date
Clayton
Active Member
Awesome thanks for the info racerx!! I priced getting my fork pipes rechromed and so far it’s around $245 bucks per pipe so I am looking at different options. Also many chrome shops have told me that these need to be hard chromed and they only do decorative chrome and that it would wear out and leak. Does that sound right? They seem to think it’s for a hydraulic cylinder and that’s not the same as far as I see it. Any and all info is greatly appreciated.
These are hydraulic cylinders and the OD is a critical, close-tolerance, dimension. You can't rechrome them below the seal-swept area, they won't fit. Above the seal-swept area, chrome plating is still a longshot....001-.002" added thickness and they won't fit the lower tree. Then, there's the internal side and the unknown effects of plating. I don't believe these were plated. Hard chrome would be used to restore pitted/scored surfaces, then precision-turned back to spec.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
Fork pipe is a pretty good and common name. I usually call them, inner or upper fork leg. Fork tube. One option is to start buying good looking used front ends. Maybe you get one good "pipe" then sell off the rest. Then do it again. Until you get what you need. Scouring eBay regularly is what it might take. Most often, the seller will not specify the detailed condition of these parts...or do they disassemble them to even know the true condition. It's a crap shoot. I have good fork pipes...but I hate selling them separately.
But when you're looking at $250 each for repairs, or for a reconditioned part...it makes the crapshoot a good choice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-79-Ho...117016?hash=item4b7e09c658:g:uf4AAOSwcFNfF6cP
I can vouch for the eBay seller that I linked. Seems to be a straight shooter...good parts seller.
But when you're looking at $250 each for repairs, or for a reconditioned part...it makes the crapshoot a good choice.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1971-79-Ho...117016?hash=item4b7e09c658:g:uf4AAOSwcFNfF6cP
I can vouch for the eBay seller that I linked. Seems to be a straight shooter...good parts seller.
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I picked these up a few months ago and will be installing them soon.
https://hondanuts.com/1016-Front-Fork-Assy-Honda-CT70-K2-1979-P5971730.aspx
https://hondanuts.com/1016-Front-Fork-Assy-Honda-CT70-K2-1979-P5971730.aspx
Clayton
Active Member
Well that makes since when you put it that way racerx. I guess that’s what I’m gonna have to do Kirrbby, start looking for front ends. It’s crazy how many reproduced parts are out there but nobody reproduces fork pipes. If I didn’t have a K1 I could use an option like Jeckler linked to. I knew nothing about CT70’s when I bought my K1 but from what I know now it seems like the K1 is a bike that doesn’t have many “followers” lol. But an the other hand it makes me love it more!!!
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
Thanks for posting those parts again Jeckler. I forgot about those.
I'd be looking hard at the parts that Jeckler posted in #6.
I sent nevc a question about their fork legs...if the inner tubes are Honda copies, and might work as replacements..?
But it only stands to reason that they ARE.
Clayton, if you bought those fork legs, you should be able to use them with your K1. All you need to know is the O.D. of the LOWER leg...if your K1 chrome tubes will slide over the lower leg, then your painted front end parts will all work. You would just remove the rubber gators, and the chromed trim pieces that hold the gators, then use all of your K1 trim.
You would be the guinnea pig tho. I'm not aware of anyone who has tried it...to confirm that it works.
The nevc ad says "works with K2-79" but the question is, did you try them on a K1"
I'm hoping that the inners are direct copies, and can work in the Honda lower legs....that would be enough to justify the price, IMO.
All things the same, minty-new parts are my preference, too.
That said, K1-`79 fork legs that are beyond (reasonable) hope have been few & far between. That comes down to crash damage, serious rust or/and scoring. I've had decent luck straightening minor bends. Any rust that's above & outside of the seal-swept area can be bead blasted, the steel then metalfinished & polished. Rust pits can be brazed, metalfinished and polished - as long as they're localized; this can play well with the seals, if done right. Where hope fades is when the rust is widespread & deep, especially if it extends below the seal swept area. The kiss of death, besides severe crash damage, is deep scoring, heavy wear, or rust where the inner leg glides through the internal bushings, or/and the steel collar at the end of the inner fork leg. I've seen a few specimens, in recent years, that have been scored, scarred and worn to a point where the outer fork leg wobbles on the inner.
Better than 90% of the time, the inners only need attention above the seals, or have only superficial scoring near the top of the seal-swept length (which only contact the seals when the suspension is nearly bottomed-out). With these, metalfinishing & polishing restores the original finish. After that, clearcoat & light greasing keeps the rust monkey at bay.
New parts are a LOT less work...
That said, K1-`79 fork legs that are beyond (reasonable) hope have been few & far between. That comes down to crash damage, serious rust or/and scoring. I've had decent luck straightening minor bends. Any rust that's above & outside of the seal-swept area can be bead blasted, the steel then metalfinished & polished. Rust pits can be brazed, metalfinished and polished - as long as they're localized; this can play well with the seals, if done right. Where hope fades is when the rust is widespread & deep, especially if it extends below the seal swept area. The kiss of death, besides severe crash damage, is deep scoring, heavy wear, or rust where the inner leg glides through the internal bushings, or/and the steel collar at the end of the inner fork leg. I've seen a few specimens, in recent years, that have been scored, scarred and worn to a point where the outer fork leg wobbles on the inner.
Better than 90% of the time, the inners only need attention above the seals, or have only superficial scoring near the top of the seal-swept length (which only contact the seals when the suspension is nearly bottomed-out). With these, metalfinishing & polishing restores the original finish. After that, clearcoat & light greasing keeps the rust monkey at bay.
New parts are a LOT less work...
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
I think I have a pretty impressive collection of..."junk" and "needs attention" fork tubes at home. When I get a opportunity, I'll post up some pics. Maybe start a "is this part any good" thread. lol...could be a fun thread for my "fun thread" collection.
Cause, I AM a collector...of fun threads...and junk parts...and...other stuff too...
Cause, I AM a collector...of fun threads...and junk parts...and...other stuff too...
There's also the satisfaction of bringing "left for dead" parts back to life.
Clayton
Active Member
All great info, that’s why I love this forum!!! So many good opinions and YEARS of knowledge here. Kirrbby I think I might order a set of the NEVC forks and give it a try. At worst they don’t work and I save them for another build in the future lol. Thanks again guys for all the good info.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
Nevc did respond yesterday. Said they contacted their supplier who said that they sent oem parts to the fabricator to be copied. But they've never taken them apart to see/compare the internals. And nevc hasn't disassembled them either.
Clayton, maybe when you get them you can show us some pics...a direct comparison to the Honda parts.
...maybe some measurements...if you're really feeling froggy, pull one apart to see what's inside...compared to the original.
I'd like to know if the inner legs could be used as a direct replacement part.
The eBay seller that I linked above was nice enough to give me some info too.
He said he sent 10 fork pipes in to be hard chromed...even sending 10, they ended up costing more than $100 each to be fixed up. But you can see in his listing...they look pretty fantastic...new.
But he did note that he had them done in Cali. Where the regulations and prices may be the highest in the country.
In post #2 here, Gary linked a fork repair specialist that does centerless grinding and hard chrome etc.
https://lilhonda.com/index.php?threads/does-this-seem-like-a-good-deal-or-legit.23299/#post-190797
Clayton, maybe when you get them you can show us some pics...a direct comparison to the Honda parts.
...maybe some measurements...if you're really feeling froggy, pull one apart to see what's inside...compared to the original.
I'd like to know if the inner legs could be used as a direct replacement part.
The eBay seller that I linked above was nice enough to give me some info too.
He said he sent 10 fork pipes in to be hard chromed...even sending 10, they ended up costing more than $100 each to be fixed up. But you can see in his listing...they look pretty fantastic...new.
But he did note that he had them done in Cali. Where the regulations and prices may be the highest in the country.
In post #2 here, Gary linked a fork repair specialist that does centerless grinding and hard chrome etc.
https://lilhonda.com/index.php?threads/does-this-seem-like-a-good-deal-or-legit.23299/#post-190797
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Clayton
Active Member
So I just ordered a set of fork assemblies from NEVC and will defiantly update this tread or maybe start a new one when I tear them down. Racerx as you suggested in my other post I am going to see how the well they fit up with my K1 uppers. Kirrbby I called the people at EC Grinding from my other post, their price was $245.00 for your starting off if your pipes where in real bad shape they said the price would go up. Also that doesn't include shipping. I'm kinda excited to get my NEVC forks and see what they really look like inside!
scooter
Well-Known Member
On my to-do list is finishing up an attempt at refurbishing some front end tubes. The was to center less grind the tubes a few thousandths and have them rechromed (hard chrome). “Lost” a few during centerless grinding because I didn’t check for straightness and a bent shaft doesn’t go through the grinding process true. With the numbers down i didn’t go to the plater. Lesson learned was to check and straighten prior to grinding a second batch. I lost momentum along the way and things probably won’t happen near term, but that was/is the eventual plan. In the mean time just keep an eye out for good ones as they pop up
Clayton
Active Member
So my new forks from NEVC came in. I dissembled them and took some readings and here are my results. To me they look like they will work just fine with my K1 lowers and uppers but I need some input from everyone on this site to tell me if I am correct on this. One of them did have a dent on the upper chrome ring straight out of the box. I've included several pics and if anyone wants any more measurements just let me know and i will take them. Overall the new forks are nice, they have painted lowers instead of brushed aluminum besides than they look great for a normal restore that is going to be rode.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
Thank you for that information Clayton!
It looks like they are a pretty nicely reproduced part. Is that what you are seeing too??
The inner tubes...and the bushings and all, look like they would work inside of the stock Honda lower legs..?
Or of course, use them just as they come, right out of the box, complete. Just add oil.
Other than being painted, the lower legs look very much like the stock lowers. At first glance, they look close enough to me.
I think it's pretty awesome that they stuck to the Honda design when they made those inner legs and bushings...holes...etc. A truly ACCURATE reproduction?? Imagine that.
Thanks for taking the time...and work, to share that info. Much appreciated.
It looks like they are a pretty nicely reproduced part. Is that what you are seeing too??
The inner tubes...and the bushings and all, look like they would work inside of the stock Honda lower legs..?
Or of course, use them just as they come, right out of the box, complete. Just add oil.
Other than being painted, the lower legs look very much like the stock lowers. At first glance, they look close enough to me.
I think it's pretty awesome that they stuck to the Honda design when they made those inner legs and bushings...holes...etc. A truly ACCURATE reproduction?? Imagine that.
Thanks for taking the time...and work, to share that info. Much appreciated.