Honda Candy Yellow In Rattle Can?

B

b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
Hello,

My 72 Candy Yellow CL100 continues to awaken from it's long slumber and I need to start thinking about a few minor cosmetic issues. The bike is mechanically and electrically in good shape and she'll be a roller on new Michelin Gazelle tires later today when I reinstall the front tire. I will also reinstall the fuel tank and seat. I have to do something today to make me forget the Kentucky loss last night. :20:

My yellow plastic battery cover is in sad shape but it's new black replacement from Indonesia is here and needs paint. I have searched here and elsewhere looking for something in rattle can to spray the new cover with and found nothing.

If I don't find something soon, I'll take my cracked cover to my local automotive paint store and see if they can mix me a good blend in rattle can. They did a good job on the Mighty Green that I had them mix for me on my second ST90. I'll post whatever paint recipe code that we come up with here if the match winds up looking good. It cost me around $25 a can last time but at this point I don't have any choice.

Rick
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
MG is solid color, a world apart from a candy. At the very least, you'll need a metallic basecoat over which a transparent candy color will be applied, in thin, multiple, coats until the desired color value is "developed". The chances of getting a color match are slim, at best. The chances of being able to do this cheaply, nonexistent. Paint tech has changed dramatically since the early `70s; most automotive paint is catalyzed isocyanate-based urethane. It's tough, durable, material...just toxic (until cured), expensive and tricky to apply. If that weren't enough, I'd not skip the clear topcoat; that provides the durability.

Colorite sells what you need in rattle cans. Be forewarned, $25 will probably just cover the shipping; this is "hazmat".I know, not what you wanted to read but, facts are facts.:40:
 
B

b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
Yikes!! I did not grasp the difficulty in matching a candy color. It makes a twenty dollar fiberglass repair kit look like a reasonable option though still not a complete repair of the old one.

Rick
 
Enginedoctor

Enginedoctor

Well-Known Member
yeah rick, what racerx said above… it's all true.

Having just shelled out $150 on 2 quarts of paint, plus hardener, and getting a color i'm satisfied with (that i KNOW isn't an 'exact' match), candy paint is no joke. I work out of a body shop, i've painted cars before, mostly solids, with some metallics, and clear on top, and even a couple single stages, but i'm not the the point of attempting a candy/ pearl. It requires a deft touch, and serious experience. Left to seasoned professionals, in my opinion.

I have a cys bike, but i'm leaving it with 'patina.' If you find a match we'd all love to know what it is.

What's more is, if you want it to come out pro, you need a paint booth, good clean air supply, probably a gun with 2 different size tips (or maybe 2 guns) that cost $700 each…

if you don't want it that nice, the rattle can manage (pardon the pun). Since it's a cl100, you could have a pro paint the tank and side covers, then black the frame yourself. that would be your best bet if you want it REALLY nice. If you do the prep work yourself, (assuming the body is nice) you might only be set back $350 or so, if you bring a case of beer and make friends with the painter.

something to consider. more than one way to skin a cat. or a bike.
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
CYS isn't the toughest to replicate. It's still an involved process...
 

Attachments

  • DSC03156.jpg
    DSC03156.jpg
    35.6 KB · Views: 533
  • DSC00882.jpg
    DSC00882.jpg
    35 KB · Views: 406
  • DSC00889a.jpg
    DSC00889a.jpg
    75.9 KB · Views: 1,051
  • DSC04030.JPG
    DSC04030.JPG
    257.7 KB · Views: 343
  • DSC04045.jpg
    DSC04045.jpg
    51.6 KB · Views: 345
  • DSC04044.jpg
    DSC04044.jpg
    58.7 KB · Views: 342
  • DSC00753.jpg
    DSC00753.jpg
    28.2 KB · Views: 809
  • DSC06981.jpg
    DSC06981.jpg
    30.9 KB · Views: 418
B

b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
Hello,

I'm not looking for museum grade perfection but I do appreciate the advice. And I am willing to retain the petina though I do want to cover a few rusty spots and get something semi-close for the battery cover.. I'll let you know how things turn out.

Many thanks,

Rick
 
6

69ST

Well-Known Member
Believe me, you're not the only one who's said that and it's perfectly understandable. However, candy colors are like chrome plating...an all-or-nothing proposition. If the prep and application aren't done well it'll look dreadful without much of a savings. It takes me ~4 hours in the booth to apply the base, CYS mid & clear coats on a CT70K1 set of tins; that's the "quick & easy" part of a body restoration.

Only way you might catch a break is if you prep the parts and find someone willing/able to include a couple of small pieces with another CYS sprayout session. The actual gun time, for a couple of small parts, isn't much; it's the 20-40 minutes per coat that eats hours.
 
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Rick, you could check out the Duplicolor Metalcast paint. I think they had a yellow that looked similar to cys. I've tried the red, and Hagop has tried the orange with good results.
atapatalk.imageshack.com_v2_15_04_06_5ec9de0ca6afb2459e3edcf200fc616a.jpg
 
Last edited:
B

b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
Hey Kirrby,

That looks close enough for my needs. Does the can have a color code on it that would make this easy to find?

I will do a spray out on something first before using it on my new battery cover.

Edit: Never mind. That appears to be their "MC202" paint code for Anodized Yellow. I'll find it and take a look.

Many thanks,

Rick
 
Last edited:
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
The yellow might be one of the stock colors that autozone keeps on the shelf. Or they could order it for you. There is a silver metallic base coat that is part of the system too. You'll want to look into that also.
 
B

b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
The Metalcast Anodized Yellow actually worked out well. At a quick glance, you will not notice much difference. It did require the Metalcast Base Coat underneath the yellow and it was a special order for both cans from O'Reilly Auto Parts. But all in all, not too bad from a preparation or expense standpoint.

Rick
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ctrider

ctrider

Member
b52bombardier1 said:
The Metalcast Anodized Yellow actually worked out well. At a quick glance, you will not notice much difference. It did require the Metalcast Base Coat underneath the yellow and it was a special order for both cans from O'Reilly Auto Parts. But all in all, not too bad from a preparation or expense standpoint.

Rick
Click to expand...

Well lets see some pics!!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
B

b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
I will try and post a few tonight. This bike was easy to awaken from its coma and now looks pretty good. Even kept the original seat.

Rick
 
Last edited by a moderator:
B

b52bombardier1

Well-Known Member
Hello,

Here you go for pictures. Sorry for the weird upside down photos. I promise I did not stand on my head to take or post the pictures. Crazy.

Rick20151008_184514.jpg20151008_184550.jpg
 
Last edited:
kirrbby

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Well that's thumbs up for the Metalcast red, yellow and orange so far. Someone needs to try the blue and green. And... just for funzies, purple.
486ab5a388d8381aa38753db295841f8.jpg2cbd8b8e574d2d3a1b1cfe5ad9a89028.jpgc4e956e98eb943df8a66608681b65ed2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top