honda z50r 1981 leaking oil
- Thread starter Mazda2002
- Start date
cjpayne
Well-Known Member
I just realized there is no spring thingy in this seal, but the flat part goes on the outside. I will get you a pic.
cjpayne
Well-Known Member
LOL. I had one on my shop bench that I left the other day. I was going to take a pic of it until I saw there was no spring. Just thought I made a mistake and had to post back quickly. Later I pulled another out of an old K0 case and it didn't have one either. Strange. I guess the new OEM one I just recently installed had one.
Enginedoctor
Well-Known Member
i find the kick start and shift shaft seals on these are the WORST.
when you pull the seal out again (assuming it still leaks) check for play in the aluminum where the kick shaft rides. i had that problem on my cr500r (much harder to kick) and had to replace the cover, or the seal wouldn't hold oil… the seal is only designed to seal a rotating shaft, not an oscillating one…
also make sure the seal surface area on the shaft is good and free of burrs. a small junky section of the shaft will wipe a new seal out with great haste.
when you pull the seal out again (assuming it still leaks) check for play in the aluminum where the kick shaft rides. i had that problem on my cr500r (much harder to kick) and had to replace the cover, or the seal wouldn't hold oil… the seal is only designed to seal a rotating shaft, not an oscillating one…
also make sure the seal surface area on the shaft is good and free of burrs. a small junky section of the shaft will wipe a new seal out with great haste.
Well I checked it again this morning and so far it looks good... Maybe something was stuck in there a little piece of dirt or something... I cleaned it up and made sure nothing was on the seal and looks good so far... I check back tonight when I get home from work. It's funny it's so simple to change but things can still go wrong.
cjpayne
Well-Known Member
Aint that the truth.lol.
Before riding, I like to make sure everything is clean, take it for a spin, let it cool down, then check for residue/leaking with my fingers.
I also keep a big thick piece of black plastic under my bike at all times when parked. It makes it easy to see any oil or whatever that may come from the bike. The black plastic is actually for a shipping pallet that held heavy boxes of frozen food items to protect them from the pallet when shipped. VERY tough and cleans easily. I gave the other one to my brother and he used it to roof a BIG dog house with about 5yrs ago.lol. It still doesn't leak!
There may also have been residual oil left behind in some unseen, hard-to-reach, recess. If/when you ever pull the engine from the bike, you'll quickly see what I mean. It can take a while for that to dissipate. It could also have been something that prevented the seal from making full contact. A tiny piece of dirt could be dislodged with a few shaft rotations or, a partially-folded seal lip may have straightened itself out. Whatever happened, no point in arguing with success. Sometimes, however, a little patience saves frustration...not to mention needless work.
Well I just checked it again after work and looks to be nice and dry so looking good 
I wasn't sure of the year of the bike because it's been painted and someone removed the sticker from the frame... I found this on the engine AB02E5307196 would this make it a 1984 model?
Now I got to figure out what I did wrong on the carb the bike was running but not great I cleaned the carb and got new seals also and I went to start it and it's overflowing... I might have not put the bowl on correctly... I'll have to check that later on tonight if I have time.
I wasn't sure of the year of the bike because it's been painted and someone removed the sticker from the frame... I found this on the engine AB02E5307196 would this make it a 1984 model?
Now I got to figure out what I did wrong on the carb the bike was running but not great I cleaned the carb and got new seals also and I went to start it and it's overflowing... I might have not put the bowl on correctly... I'll have to check that later on tonight if I have time.
Enginedoctor
Well-Known Member
yeah check the float height and the condition of the needle. that's where i would lean towards on a flooding carb. also make sure the float isn't leaking. you can shake it next to your ear, or as racerx has suggested, freeze it then drop it in some room temp gasoline and look for bubbles.
on the needle look for grooves or swelling of the rubber (viton?) tip. also make sure the spring in the needle works, but if i remember right from my 79z50r, there is no spring. the float kind of 'captures' the shoulder on the needle.
on the needle look for grooves or swelling of the rubber (viton?) tip. also make sure the spring in the needle works, but if i remember right from my 79z50r, there is no spring. the float kind of 'captures' the shoulder on the needle.
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
well I finally got to work on the bike again.. I got it started and running good I had forgot to install the screw that holds down the float so that's why it was floading... so that was a small thing to forget but an important one that's for sure.
Now I need to change the oil and get the kids riding on it... my wife tried it and she thought it was fun.
I plan on restoring it this winter.... what's a good place to purchase tires online? I live in Canada I find the shipping is so much when I check ebay.
Now I need to change the oil and get the kids riding on it... my wife tried it and she thought it was fun.
I plan on restoring it this winter.... what's a good place to purchase tires online? I live in Canada I find the shipping is so much when I check ebay.