New to the Hobby/Business

hornetgod

Well-Known Member
I have the bad habit of ordering a bunch of stuff and a day or so later realizing I missed one or two things and end up ordering again. Luckily, Dr ATV has caught it twice and refunded the shipping cost and shipped both orders together with out me even asking.
 
Help!

Well, I manage ruin the paint on the candy gold (rookie!) The swingarm looks hideous, I am almost embarassed to show it, but I need to take my medicine (ridicule me, I deserve it!) and learn from my mistakes. I need some advice though. I really don't to want to re-blast this thing. I am hoping someone with knowledge greater than mine (this could be anyone who has ever finger painted in grade school) in painting will say I can just use some 600 grit paper and smooth out the runs and scuff the rest up enough to redo the job. The new paint shipped today and hopefully will be here by Friday. If I am lucky I can re-shoot it this weekend. As always any advice will be appreciated.
 

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As you now realize, the gun was spraying too much. Did you do a sprayout with the gun before spraying? How many coats did you spray? This was just the Kandy Koat without any clear coat, right?
 
As you now realize, the gun was spraying too much. Did you do a sprayout with the gun before spraying? How many coats did you spray? This was just the Kandy Koat without any clear coat, right?

No, after I realized the paint job was pretty much ruined, for practice I went ahead and sprayed a couple of clear coats. I did this because the previous topaz paint job looked great until I did the clear coat. It looked like I dry sprayed it. I fixed it with some new clear coat from English Color. I am worried about this job becuase during my practice run, the clear coat on this job looked like I dry sprayed it as well and I made sure the fluid control was wide open. I think I can control the runs, but I am worried about the clear coat. If all else fails Motorhead said he would come help.

---------- Post added at 07:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------

I took my engine guard, taillight, fenders, fork legs and shock springs to Al's Plating today. The cost for all 8 parts was $240. Does this sound reasonable? He didn't Itemize everthing, but i tried to watch and looked like the taillight, fenders, and engine guard were $48 per part, so this would have made the springs and fork legs about $20 per pair. I am not real sure though. It's like I have always said there are three types of people those who are good at math and those who are not!
 
Your going to have to at least sand it down untill all the runs and clear coat is at least smooth and even. Maybe the paint kit was a old one and some seperation was going on.....
I'm going to be spraying a Sapphire Blue KO this weekend. Hope the kit is "fresh" :26:
 
Your going to have to at least sand it down untill all the runs and clear coat is at least smooth and even. Maybe the paint kit was a old one and some seperation was going on.....
I'm going to be spraying a Sapphire Blue KO this weekend. Hope the kit is "fresh" :26:

Post some pic's of how yours turns out. I am sure all my problems are user error, but that's why I am here asking. Are you using the vintage honda paint kit from Don Dirtbiker? My new kit showed up today so I will be making another atempt this week myself.
 

Dupa

Member
Thats a good price for the chrome. At that price I would ask if the job is just strip and re-plate or if it includes buffing out any imperfections before plate.

If its just strip and plate you might end up with chrome pits if the parts where pitted.
 
Well, I never really asked, but I do rememeber the guy saying he would have to spend some time smoothing everthing out, even the receptionist said they would smooth out all the imperfections. I guess I will see when it is done.
 
Motivational Shots

Here are a few shots of the almost complete paint job. I will need to wet sand a few runs/sags in the clear coat ( I have hell with clear coat, I find there is a fine line between not enough and way too much) I pieced it together to get a look at the parts together, because I keep looking at the individual parts and spot all the little flaws. Besides a few runs/sags I have some shading issues, but it will have to do.
 

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Well, not much to add, but I did manage to make the paint look pretty decent. I aggresively sanded it with 1000, then 1500 and finished it of with 2000. After the sanding I buffed it with "Super Duty Buffing Compound" and then finished that off with some wax. I must admit it looks gooooood! Hopefully the pictures will show how good it looks. It's probably still not as good as if a pro did it, but for me, I think it looks great. I was really amazed at how all that sanding made it look. It looks completely different, it looks more original. I am starting to think maybe I am not that bad of a painter, I just need to finish the job. If you can't tel, I am excited I don't have to re-do it. Anyway give me your thoughts, good or bad, I can handle it.
 

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Well, not much to add, but I did manage to make the paint look pretty decent. I aggresively sanded it with 1000, then 1500 and finished it of with 2000. After the sanding I buffed it with "Super Duty Buffing Compound" and then finished that off with some wax. I must admit it looks gooooood! Hopefully the pictures will show how good it looks. It's probably still not as good as if a pro did it, but for me, I think it looks great. I was really amazed at how all that sanding made it look. It looks completely different, it looks more original. I am starting to think maybe I am not that bad of a painter, I just need to finish the job. If you can't tel, I am excited I don't have to re-do it. Anyway give me your thoughts, good or bad, I can handle it.

Motorhead you might find this funny, I had to move a Shinner out of the pictures, it was sitting next to the garage door!
 
That gold looks just fine! It's come along ways since your first photos with the first paint job.
Gold has to be one of the hardest colors to redo, especially the shading part of it.
Man my 71 Impala was Champaign Gold with a white vinyl top and I had to replace the front fender.
Never could get the match right!
 
Yes, the shading was very hard to keep to a minimum. It was real hard were the fork legs go through the brace. I did notice the un-restored gold silver tag I went and looked at last week even had a little on it. So I don't feel to bad.
 
Rick, that bike looks great!! I think you were just sandbagging with all the pictures of the runs just to keep us on the edge of our seat. I actually just threw an old beater Candy Gold frame in the garbage, and I think it had the slight "shading" you are referring to. I think bjatwood is right on with it probably being the hardest color to apply. You passed the test!
 
Rick, that bike looks great!! I think you were just sandbagging with all the pictures of the runs just to keep us on the edge of our seat. I actually just threw an old beater Candy Gold frame in the garbage, and I think it had the slight "shading" you are referring to. I think bjatwood is right on with it probably being the hardest color to apply. You passed the test!

Your to kind Motorhead, and yes the decals look better without the clear covering...lol
 
Well, not much to update, but I am excited I am finally working on it again. I got the fenders redone and put the front wheel on so we are making some headway. I am hoping to get the swingarm, shocks and rear wheel on this weekend, but it's looking like I might have to load the seadoo's up tomorrow and go to the lake. Family time! I tried to tell they could go swimming in the pool, but they are not buying it.
 

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I forgot to mention, I almost had a small disaster with the hub today. I polished it, clear coated it and set it on the back of my truck bumper to dry. I had to make a qiuck run to the auto store for some carb cleaner and you can guess what I forgot. It was laying in the middle of the street un-harmed when I got home!
 
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