Off The Grid New to me Z50

samstheman

Active Member
This is where I picked up this z50 from craigslist off the grid 20 miles out in the desert out of town in the middle of no where lol. 60AD4C94-5C32-427A-9CFC-AB494074120F_zpsj8dt7lub.jpg[/UR98AF0ED1-BBA0-47EB-8D6D-43D03F4C3ADC_zps4rjkqdvw.jpgL]
This i what she looked like when I first brought her home. Did a compression check it was low so I tore down to rebuild and restore. Any help wuld be appreciated.
 

samstheman

Active Member
Thanks a lot. So I pulled apart top end after doing a compression check had 60lbs. I found a Honda second over piston and ring set on ebad. Waiting for that so I can get bored and matched to piston. The valves had a lot of carbon build up on spark plug side but were set to factory spec int.002 and ext.003 so I just cleaned up carbon and blow everything off. Is there anything else I should be aware of or check. I cleaned all motor parts and repainted cylinder black .F4E26B7C-C704-4435-9A3E-814599443263_zpsmbplztg2.jpg
 

samstheman

Active Member
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Rebuilding carb while waiting for company to bore cylinder should be done next week. And my local dealer had some NOS honda parts. Picked up a new honda piston and ring set from Ebad.IMG_6045_zpst9fjztxb.jpg
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Finished carb rebuild and clean up. As soon as I get started Ill tare it down for paint and powder coat refinish.
 

69ST

Well-Known Member
Two trip-steps with these little 50s. The carb has a few little "secrets" associated with the emulsion tube/main jet. You should pull it, to inspect the main fuel passage, which tends to clog. When that occurs, no fuel flows through the main circuit and the engine won't take throttle. I believe that this model also requires a rubber seal, that gets sandwiched between the bottom of the float bowl and bottom of the main jet/emulsion tube. Without it, the mixture will be pig-rich.

As for the overboring, few shops have tools (boring bar, dingleberry hone) small enough to do a 39mm cylinder. If yours does, problem solved. These little cylinders are very thick and take an overbore like nothing.

I always verify the valve-to-seat sealing and contact band. Once in a while, I'll come across one of these heads that just needs a light valve lapping. Most of the time, a full valve job (new valves, seats cut, lapping) is needed. Was your intake port clean, silver, aluminum...or blackened. Anything other than squeaky clean means a tuliped (worn out & leaking) intake valve.
 

samstheman

Active Member
Could you post a pic of rubber your taking about at bottom of float bowl. I put all parts from carb rebuild kit and cleaned in carb cleaner. QandE in Anaheim doing bore thy said no prob. I left head cylinder with them to do leak test it had a ton of carbon on spark plug side of valves. I asked them to do valves if they need it they will get back to me. Thanks for the heads up. Im looking for 1 tank side oval badge for good price used is ok if anyone knows thanks.
 

kirrbby

Well-Known Member
Trickiest part of rebuilding your carb IMO is getting that tiny pilot jet out of it. I would be sure to use only a RIGHT sized and sharp screwdriver. Then just be very cautious not to strip out the slot in the jet.

Maybe a ⅛" or 5/32 the one I use was a little too big and I filed it down to make it skinnier. But the thickness of the blade fits nice and snug in the slot, works great.
 
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samstheman

Active Member
So I didn't have an ignition on my 50> I bought this one cheep with no key and tore it all apart got all dirt clods and leaves out and had my uncle the lock smith make me a new key lubed up everything and It works great. Also painted shell.
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samstheman

Active Member
Thanks all we have a small powder coat system at work comes in handy for projects like this. Not sure what color my original wheels were maybe someone can tell me is it silver,grey or aluminum color thanks
 

scooter

Well-Known Member
Sam - I sent a cloud silver sample out to prismatic powders for them to match. They sent me back two "no special mix samples" to choose from. One was a Porsche rim color and the other was a general silver. I liked the general silver best. Let me know and I can pull the samples they sent. I think I know where they are if you are thinking of doing your rims
 
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samstheman

Active Member
So been working on wheels before and after pics> I just sandblasted and powder coated them Bavarian silver and replaced hard ware. My sprocket bolts were 3/8 16 at one time might have been a repair. The tires that came on bike were wheel barrel lol. The rear rim as had a hamer or something taken to it at lest its clean now and looks the part. None of my stuff is going to be a 100 percent accurate. Trying to clean up and redo as much old parts as possible with a few new things purchased just having fun. I had a 1970 z50 as a kid and now grown I want another to take camping and put in my trailer. Im building a rider.AE8436C9-39CA-4829-B699-3723871CB62F_zpsj4tg3igz.jpg22E4F574-D690-4A46-BAE1-FD84DEA6D032_zpskjk0uwua.jpg4234A6A8-2D4C-46A1-A709-A966C10FF73A_zpshq2ihtib.jpg78CFD2B3-6BC7-4771-9EAA-209300A372DF_zpsruvsbzau.jpg
 

cjpayne

Well-Known Member
They look great. I've never regretted having powdered rims on my K1, especially when it comes to repairing a tube or replacing a tire. Makes things much easier.
 
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