Oil?
- Thread starter hondaCT701972
- Start date
i use honda gn4 4 cycle..i just vaseline up real good before i buy and the pain is not that bad...one thing i like about the gn4 is it does have very good cleaning properties...it will hold and remove a lot of crud that you cannot get to inside your engine...personally yes it beyond stupid what honda dealers charge...but i personally feel it is the right choice...i would argue indefinetly about 2 cycle oil..golden spectro only way to fly on your 2 stroker
kjax74k3
Member
well for one i wouldnt lube up just yet. i can slap a chevy logo on oil that doesn't mean it will make my car drag race. honda oil is just too much for the typical blue collar person there are others that are cheaper and as effective if not better. racer x as experienced as he is is right the brands have been removing additives that cause issues with wear. read the bottle and check usually thought the cheap sae30 works good (its 1.50 here lol) if you have the cash to throw at it (not literally you may look nutty) then the honda is ok for a fanatic but for me i stick with castrol and never have any probs. mobile as of now though im basically buying a bottle to use to oil my door hinges with lol. i used mobile and almost got hit on the road from missed shifts and over heating.its basically crude oils puke. but as racer x's experience is very good go with him as far as read the bottle goes he wont steer you wrong.
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motomaster premium 10w40
well i live right next to a Canadian Tire, so I use the motomaster premium 10w40. On the back of the bottle it says "meets JASO-MA specs".
Its just regular not synthetic though. At $4 its the cheapest m/c oil at canadian tire.
Being anal, I like to protect my engine (and bike) the same way a father protects his virgin daughters; i change oil every 400miles and every second oil change i add Seafoam to the crankcase and gastank. I trust it is doing its job (seafoam experts?).
I guess the yanks dont really use motomaster, so i would like some canadians to give their opinion of their motomaster experience.
I might start reaching deeper into my pockets and start using amsoil.:39:
P.S. I ride my bike every single day from april to november
so that means I put on around 500miles a month . I don't own a car. 
well i live right next to a Canadian Tire, so I use the motomaster premium 10w40. On the back of the bottle it says "meets JASO-MA specs".
Its just regular not synthetic though. At $4 its the cheapest m/c oil at canadian tire.
Being anal, I like to protect my engine (and bike) the same way a father protects his virgin daughters; i change oil every 400miles and every second oil change i add Seafoam to the crankcase and gastank. I trust it is doing its job (seafoam experts?).
I guess the yanks dont really use motomaster, so i would like some canadians to give their opinion of their motomaster experience.
I might start reaching deeper into my pockets and start using amsoil.:39:
P.S. I ride my bike every single day from april to november
so that means I put on around 500miles a month . I don't own a car.
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nascarnate326
Member
P.S. I ride my bike every single day from april to november
My blue one gets rode every day too.
Is yours insured and titled?
ontario said:
Keep in mind the fact that marketing tends to be country-specific. The same product can have different names, depending upon where it is sold. Motor oils have more brand monikers than almost anyone could keep straight, without a scorecard. As kjax74k3 has implied, quite correctly IMO, there's no small amount of bullsh....err...that is...marketing expertise to contend with. The oil either has a compatible formulation or it doesn't. At one point, seeing a new API spec meant that you were getting better oil. Nowadays it's used to supplement the tidal wave of "marketing expertise"
AMSoil is supposed to be the best, but at close to $12/quart seems kinda pricey. Mobil 1 rates very close for about half the price. What I find very interesting is that while everyone else jacked-up oil prices by 100-200% AMSoil's price hit was "only" 20%.When TEL (tetra ethyl lead) first disappeared from pump gas, there were all kinds of rumors...including dissolved head gaskets:35: Reality was different. Valve & seat recession was the main issue and not with every engine. It was mainly engines with cylinder heads of early `60s to early `70s vintage. Outside of that window, the metallurgy was spec'd to deal without TEL. Lead doesn't go away very quickly with old engines. A lot of them had enough residual TEL in minor sludge deposits to protect the valve seats for years. Valve problems usually only occurred in engines that were run hard, otherwise, the valve/seat never saw high enough temps. The prevention was simple enough, too: hardened valve seat inserts or .1 grams of lead/gallon of gas. Zinc dialkyl dithio phosphate is like TEL but for flat tappets and bike trannies. I know of no substitute at present. Those of us with classic musclecars are stuck paying $10 per oil change for Znddp. That ought to be enough for 5 oil changes in a CT70 motor. It's just a "scratch shot". You're no further ahead than just paying the extra $2/quart from the get-go.
Just so there's no misunderstanding of why I still run GN4 oil-
It boils down to sticking with what works plus $6/qt is still less than $10-12 quart and I'm a big believer that frequent oil changes do more to extend engine life than the more expensive oils. They may be better, but contaminants will reach unaccpetable levels long before the oil can be run long enough to break down and lose lubricity, unless the engine is overheated.
CT70nut
New Member
I've personally had good luck with HDEOs. I currently have Delvac 1300 in all of my CT's as well as my XL200 and XR's (100, 200 and 350) I've used Rotella T 15/40 too. Very robust oils with lots of anti wear additives, including a still pretty substantial amount of ZDDP. I have occasionally heard people complain about foaming, but I haven't had any problems, even after running around for several miles at WOT. I actually have Rotella in my wife's Ninja 250 right now (redlines at 13,000) and it works great. It shifts just as good as the Mobil 1 m/c specific oil. Best of all, these oils are about $11 per gallon at Wally World.
My blue one gets rode every day too.
Is yours insured and titled?
you bet it is.
My CT is not a toy, I treat it as a commuter vehicle.
I've heard the same. Both are excellent oils but lack anti-foaming additives for use in engines that spin much faster than 2500rpm...and that's been from Ford & GM engineers. Of course, you seem to be getting away with it and the car companies don't seem to getting nearly such positive results. On one hand, there's conventional wisdom (lore?) on the other, actual results. Don't know what to believe, at the moment:102:
zack_novak
Member
For those of you that are experienced with this, this question is being asked to you: Does the sea foam actually work in the oil? How much do you put in the oil?
kjax74k3
Member
i guess the mobil i had was a bad batch or issue whatever you wanna call it. i broke down and bought another quart but i got the bike specific 10w-40 for wet clutch ect. good thing i did it works real well it only cost like 3.50 versus 5.40 for some moto specific brand. as i said in a previous post i went and looked up the directions for seafoam and used it in my crankcase but the catch is not to over do it.the idea is like around 20% of the oil used replace with seafoam....i used less i went around the 10% mark in fear of doing an oopsie i used this for only a small 1 hour run to clean it out and changed i out basically i used a el cheapo moto oil for wet clutch at 2.00. then i used mobil. it worked great and at the price it was good.basically what racer x(da man on ct's:77 said what works works. dont beleive gimmics trust the experts not the "experts" or the big colorfull letters that say "LEADER IN PERFOMANCE".usually you find a little star that leads to a small type at the bottom "in tests against other leading brands" ....... lol what type of tests? you have to mainly watch the ingredient he mentioned the most at the price of valves shifters and cleaning the clutch out... id rather read up on it.
said what works works. dont beleive gimmics trust the experts not the "experts" or the big colorfull letters that say "LEADER IN PERFOMANCE".usually you find a little star that leads to a small type at the bottom "in tests against other leading brands" ....... lol what type of tests? you have to mainly watch the ingredient he mentioned the most at the price of valves shifters and cleaning the clutch out... id rather read up on it.Im not super experienced, but I yes you can add SF to the crankcase,tank and suck it through the carb.
I put 28ml per 700ml..........but now i realized my lifan 110cc actually takes 800ml
i put it in every second oil change, which is 800miles for me (I change oil every 400miles - hey i drive 500miles a month )
My blue one gets rode every day too.
Is yours insured and titled?
How many miles you put on in a month?
I don't do "long distance" very much just around my area ya know.......work, class, groceries, visit my mates, bar etc
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been peer pressured into switching to amsoil synthetic
Ok so everyone is raving about how great amsoil is.....so i guess I have to switch to it lol
Ok now I am using regular motomaster 10w40 m/c oil... and I am currently changing my oil on a 400mile interval (I have a lifan 110cc, 800ml oil capacity)
So when i get the synthetic amsoil I guess i can extend the interval to every 800miles? or maybe 1000miles?
my driving habits are around town short trips...each trip being no more than 20mins at a time...
Also when checking the oil on the dipstick (mine is always golden color) does amsoil look different than regular oil?
wheres the cheapest place to buy amsoil in ontario?
Ok so everyone is raving about how great amsoil is.....so i guess I have to switch to it lol
Ok now I am using regular motomaster 10w40 m/c oil... and I am currently changing my oil on a 400mile interval (I have a lifan 110cc, 800ml oil capacity)
So when i get the synthetic amsoil I guess i can extend the interval to every 800miles? or maybe 1000miles?
my driving habits are around town short trips...each trip being no more than 20mins at a time...
Also when checking the oil on the dipstick (mine is always golden color) does amsoil look different than regular oil?
wheres the cheapest place to buy amsoil in ontario?
nascarnate326
Member
How many miles you put on in a month?
I don't do "long distance" very much just around my area ya know.......work, class, groceries, visit my mates, bar etc
I would guess about 200 a month. From my house to work is .4 miles so most of it is just cruising and having fun. Is yours insured and plated?
Not sure how wonderful amsoil is or isn't. Their Amway-inspired marketing doesn't inspire a lot of confidence(!) That said, extending the oil change interval is a bad idea, IMO. The clutch shares the same crankcase oil and a certain amount of friction material debris is going to accumulate in the oil, just part of normal operation. I use a 250-mile interval, +/-50 miles depending upon usage. If you want to extend oil life, then add an external cartridge-type filter. As long as it's the proper formula, clean oil will do more good than expensive oil. The "bestest, most amazing" oil available won't matter very much if it's loaded with abrasive particulate material.
a_smerek
Member
I change oil in my cars every 30k kilometers. Have done so on all my cars and some have gone 500k in their lifetime. I have never had an engine problem. I usually change car oil once a year.
As for my CT, I change the oil when the lifan fails (every 500 miles or so), but I keep the external cartidge filter (lifan 150cc) clean on a regular basis. Cleaning the spinner is key on non oil filter engines. Putting ANY oil into an engine that has dirty internals is a waste of time and money, the grit just flows back into the clean oil and once again you have dirty oil that is new.
I don't buy into all the hype of regular oil changes. With todays synthetic oils you can run much longer durations than the average person is willing to try. I ran my k car with strait ATF in the engine for 2 years, never changed it once. I ran a 94 cavalier for 15 months and never checked the oil level let alone changed it. Many vehicles go a lifetime with original gear oil or transmission oil without issue.
I think what matters more is, when you do change it, clean everything. Starting with clean oil, a clean spinner or filter is key. Naturally new engines that require break in require frequent changes in the initial stages, but from there things seem to stay good.
Just my 2 cents, I'm sure 99% of people will say I am crazy, I just don't like to waste every weekend changing oil on something when it simply is not required and does not add any benefit
As for my CT, I change the oil when the lifan fails (every 500 miles or so), but I keep the external cartidge filter (lifan 150cc) clean on a regular basis. Cleaning the spinner is key on non oil filter engines. Putting ANY oil into an engine that has dirty internals is a waste of time and money, the grit just flows back into the clean oil and once again you have dirty oil that is new.
I don't buy into all the hype of regular oil changes. With todays synthetic oils you can run much longer durations than the average person is willing to try. I ran my k car with strait ATF in the engine for 2 years, never changed it once. I ran a 94 cavalier for 15 months and never checked the oil level let alone changed it. Many vehicles go a lifetime with original gear oil or transmission oil without issue.
I think what matters more is, when you do change it, clean everything. Starting with clean oil, a clean spinner or filter is key. Naturally new engines that require break in require frequent changes in the initial stages, but from there things seem to stay good.
Just my 2 cents, I'm sure 99% of people will say I am crazy, I just don't like to waste every weekend changing oil on something when it simply is not required and does not add any benefit
nascarnate326
Member
I totally agree with you, the 3k mile thing is worthless. My cars go 5k plus and both have fantastic motors. Camaro has 207k and counting