Reclaimed S90
- Thread starter red69
- Start date
red69
Well-Known Member
I almost started it today. After installing the tank with a Thailand petcock, the damn thing wouldn't flow gas to the carb. It may have been the oddball method I had to use to install a filter. I had to circumnavigate the filter so the fuel lines wouldn't have a kink. I finally gave up when the fuel wouldn't flow and just went with a four inch piece of fuel tubing from the tank to the carb.
I had next to nothing for fuel in the carb and it actually chugged over a few revs when I gave it a kick. I'll try again tomorrow with short fuel line installed.
I had next to nothing for fuel in the carb and it actually chugged over a few revs when I gave it a kick. I'll try again tomorrow with short fuel line installed.
red69
Well-Known Member
Well, it ran today and I even tooled around the subdivision for seven miles.
The initial smoke went away after a short while, but I may have a seal leaking. Looks like the oil seal on the counter shaft.
Here's some pictures and a video.
[video=youtube;6n94k7sng_Y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6n94k7sng_Y[/video]
The initial smoke went away after a short while, but I may have a seal leaking. Looks like the oil seal on the counter shaft.
Here's some pictures and a video.
[video=youtube;6n94k7sng_Y]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6n94k7sng_Y[/video]
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b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
That bike looks absolutely awesome. I got a look at a local CL90 yesterday but it is no comparison to yours though there are some similarities. Nice job by you.
Rick
Rick
SanDogDewey
Member
Good lookin' lil Honda!
b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
Hello,
Nicely done bike, video and music. That choice of song was absolutely perfect. Your bike sounds showroom new, the lighting has no dimming at idle and you should be very proud.
Rick
Nicely done bike, video and music. That choice of song was absolutely perfect. Your bike sounds showroom new, the lighting has no dimming at idle and you should be very proud.
Rick
Full-wave vs half-wave "balanced" electrical systems. This model has enough alternator output to keep the battery charged, allowing all of the lights to be powered by the battery...like a real bike. Both coils are part of the same AC circuit, fed into a full-wave rectifier. Some of the output is used to feed the secondary ignition coil but, that's still 100% of one coil plus a goodly percentage of the other, available for the charging circuit. Compare that to the CT70 electrical setup, where you get 1/2 of a single lighting coil's output fed to the HL as raw AC and the other half to a half-wave rectifier, where 50% of that is turned into waste heat.
Where the CT70 electrical systems excels is on the ignition side. Magneto ignition needs no battery and output increases with rpm. With the other setup, a dead battery means a non-running bike.
Considering that this model was aimed at older riders and intended for road use, it makes sense that it would have superior lighting. Product liability and D.O.T. compliance standards existed prior to 1970. What I've never been able to understand is why Honda chose not to combine the best of both setups...full-wave DC lighting output and magneto ignition.
red69
Well-Known Member
Okay, some good news today. I was able to register and title the S90, but not without some hoop jumping initiated by the local DMV. I had to go to the district office to have them okay the VIN. I guess the Sheriff's Office verifying it wasn't good enough. What was funny was the guy checking the VIN at the district office wanted a picture of him sitting on the bike. Done deal, as he was more than a pleasant person to deal with. I also got a thumbs up from a bus driver.
Now some annoying crap. My speedo started to howl as I approached my house. I changed the cable, but no difference. I removed it and attempted to drive it with a drill. Same noise. It actually jumps to the end of the scale also. Anyone have an idea what's wrong? I had this apart to change the face and cleaned and greased it at the same time. Where can I get this rebuilt if that's what needs to be done?
Bob
Now some annoying crap. My speedo started to howl as I approached my house. I changed the cable, but no difference. I removed it and attempted to drive it with a drill. Same noise. It actually jumps to the end of the scale also. Anyone have an idea what's wrong? I had this apart to change the face and cleaned and greased it at the same time. Where can I get this rebuilt if that's what needs to be done?
Bob
b52bombardier1
Well-Known Member
The CT90 Yahoo Group and the CT90 Yuku Group recommend either:
North Hollywood Speedometer
http://www.nhspeedometer.com/
Or Foreign Speedometer:
http://www.foreignspeedoinc.com/
I'd probably pick Foreign Speedometer.
Rick
North Hollywood Speedometer
http://www.nhspeedometer.com/
Or Foreign Speedometer:
http://www.foreignspeedoinc.com/
I'd probably pick Foreign Speedometer.
Rick
I've encountered this same issue with this flavor of the venerable triangular Nippon Seiki speedo....some were NOS(!). It is curable. The good news is that there just aren't many moving parts inside one of these. The magnetic drive is likely dry, rusty or dirty. Dis-assembling the mag drive is fiendishly tricky, but possible. If it needs to be rebuilt, you're in a tough spot. There are no service parts available for these speedos, never were. If the mag drive & needle assembly are broken, time to source another speedo and maybe cannibalize this one for usable parts.
I once saw one that had been damaged when the owner forced the unseated cable end, via the threaded cap. I've also seen a few with broken drive castings. Both were irreparable.
Spin the input by hand. If the needle jumps, there's either dirt/rust inside the mag drive, or something is broken. If you feel drag, that could be a good sign...a simple dry bushing. Normally, it should spin freely.
For now, I'd try a small shot of PB Blaster inside the threaded end, where the cable normally attaches. Set the unit on its face overnight, to aid flow.
I usually hose them out with Brakleen while the guts are out and the faceplate removed. It's not a bad idea. If there's old, crusty, grease residue inside, solvent ought to loosen it. However, with an assembled speedo, one should be concerned about the possibility of leakage getting inside and causing problems. I've had to open NOS speedometers that had been stored, for decades, face side down...because the factory grease separated then migrated to the faceplate, odometer stack & cover glass.
IDK, maybe if you hold the unit rightside up, then apply a series of short blasts you'll be alright. Bear in mind that it's the area between the square cable socket and outside barrel that needs to be sprayed & lubed...NOT the actual cable end socket, which is solid at the top. That makes the job difficult. Keep white paper towel underneath to catch the flowback. If it's dirty, then the solvent is doing some good, OTOH if it comes back just as clean as it went in, it's a waste of time & material.
IDK, maybe if you hold the unit rightside up, then apply a series of short blasts you'll be alright. Bear in mind that it's the area between the square cable socket and outside barrel that needs to be sprayed & lubed...NOT the actual cable end socket, which is solid at the top. That makes the job difficult. Keep white paper towel underneath to catch the flowback. If it's dirty, then the solvent is doing some good, OTOH if it comes back just as clean as it went in, it's a waste of time & material.
red69
Well-Known Member
Okay, Bob, earlier I turned the speedo face up over paper towels and some dirty residue deposited itself on the towels. I left it that way for an hour or so and then I tried the speedo with a drill and all worked fine. I'm thinking to just skip the Brakleen for the sake of keeping everything away from the speedo face and use it as is.