Recycled Cycle

Discussion in 'Projects/Builds' started by kirrbby, Nov 17, 2014.

  1. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    What's black and red and goes 60 miles per hour??
    Nope, it's not a frog in a blender.

    I've been thinking about building this bike for a good long while. I seen a bike on ebay that was stock candy red and most everything else was black. I liked it. I also seen one somewhere else that was the same with candy green and black, liked it too. So what I'm thinkin is to build a candy red and flat black bike using a bunch of ol bent and rusty parts that no one wants. Poppin red and flat black, and nothin else.
    Fenders,shocks,springs, bars, nuts and bolts, cables,motor.....BLACK....Everything rattlecan black. All the typical painted sheet metal...rattlecan red.
    I'll spend a little cash on paint, hot rod motor parts, and grease. Should be cheap and fun to build. Should be fun to ride and look really cool from 20 feet. I'll be able to ride it in the mud, or on the street, pull some wheelies, bomb down any trail scrubbin against the scrub brush. I wont have to be afraid of damaging parts or paint since everything will be crappy old parts painted up with a spray bomb.
    Plannin to use a CYS K1 frame, K3 front forks with the gaiters but with K1 painted fork ears on top, if that works, and a painted plastic K0 headlight bucket. Fold down bars. Might as well use a K0 taillight setup to match the headlight. Not sure yet if I want to use a classic K0 decal or a K0H.
     
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  3. dave-396

    dave-396 Member

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    Looking forward to seeing this build kirrbby
     
  4. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    Cool concept Kirb, I like it, only thing is I would go with gloss black. Takes a little more prep but looks nice especially with candy red....:3:

    Whatcha gonna use to power this Red/Black Beauty?
     
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  5. Enginedoctor

    Enginedoctor Well-Known Member

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    +1

    kirrbby i tried to pm you. your box is full again. please let me know when and if you make some room. thx.
     
  6. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    Mmmm... pretty stuck on flat. No gloss black, high gloss red. So the red pops as much as possible. Considering havin a pro shoot a bunch of clear on the red even. Or just do it myself I spose.
     
  7. cjpayne

    cjpayne Well-Known Member

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    X2 here. Using the K0 tailight will be cheaper to replace when broken from wild offroading. Every time I get into tightspots with my K1, that fat taillight worries me.
     
  8. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    No way Doc, deleted thirty + yesterday. Try it again.
     
  9. OLD CT

    OLD CT Well-Known Member

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    Unfortunately the gators wont go on with K1 ears,they are shorter and ride above the tripple. K2-79 are longer to allow the gators to fit under the tripple tree.
     
  10. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    I pretty much have all the parts to build a 51 stroke X 52 bore using the same cheap 12v stroker DRATV crank that I used in my lil blue Z50 51x47 torquer. I think the 51x52 would be a 110cc. I wouldn't mind coughin up the bucks for a TB 51mm 6v crank either and then use a H stator setup.
     
  11. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    Awww, I thought that could be the case. I'll probably just use the K1 setup then and black out the chrome sleeves, or red might be ok too.
     
  12. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    LOL Doc it's your inbox that's full now.
     
  13. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    I'd like to put a luggage rack on it. That would help protect the taillight from most things. I don't have one that's ugly enough to paint tho. Ill keep a eye, and ear out for a rough one. Would be easy to add later too.
    I have a CYS roller and a bare CYS frame that both need small repairs. I'm plannin to use one or the other. The cys looks surprisingly good with a coat of candy red on top of it..........................
     

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  14. Enginedoctor

    Enginedoctor Well-Known Member

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    i feel like a hypocrite. sent out what i needed. thanks for the heads up. just deleted 99 messages.
     
  15. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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  16. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    So when your paint is flat black I would assume you would NOT wax it?? When I choose my paint should I plan to just prime and paint? 2 step would be nice. Or prime paint and clear? Kinda seems like the clear would be necessary for easy cleaning and scratch protection. I'm lookin for advice please. I could talk to my local paint supplier but I'm sure he won't want to talk about a rattlecan paint job.
     
  17. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    Do you paint flat black, or paint black and then make it flat with the clear??

    I want to try to do a good and lasting paint job on the black. I'm thinking I will love this bike and want to keep it. In my mind I can imagine I may want to eventually have the red properly re-done by a pro. The black I don't want to have to do twice. The list of parts to be black is looong. On the other hand, my plan to be able to touch up paint in the driveway might require the 2 step and done process, prime, paint and done. But I do need to be able to wash it clean.
     
  18. racerx

    racerx Administrator
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    52x51=108cc; 47x51=88cc; 47x52=90cc. 52x52=110cc. The stock-bore/undersquare would be an interesting exercise; I'd expect it to make noticeably more torque, especially down-low. If an alternator swap is part of the equation, do yourself of huge flavor...go for a 12v/CDI conversion. H-alternators are becoming fewer & further between (read: more expensive), and points still suck.

    Last I checked, Duplicolor had a line of true candy colors. As with any paint job, it's mainly about the prep. Obviously, candy colors require meticulous application, too. That said, it should be possible to achieve nice results using rattlecans. The main drawbacks are fragility and lack of color choices, compared to modern catalyzed urethanes. Still, there are upsides...like being a whole lot more DIY-friendly, and not having to deal with the deadly toxicity of isocyanates.

    First thing I'd rule-out is painting a luggage rack. There's no coating that's going to look even halfway decent for very long if you actually carry anything. Metal hooks will chew through anything softer than chrome in short order...and the scars will look awful.

    You'll probably be happier, over the long haul, with low-gloss black as opposed to flat. Low-gloss will be a lot easier to clean, far more durable and less prone to water/chemical spotting. You may have noticed that Honda used low-gloss to replace chrome, on the later models. There's a simple reason for that. I'm not aware of anyone who offers a basecoat/clearcoat flat black...only low/medium gloss, due to the nature of the clearcoat. Low-gloss black is widely available, as a single-stage, in rattlecans; that makes for easy application as well as touch-ups.

    One school of thought sez that the relative fragility of rattlecan paint is actually a plus, in certain situations...because it can be stripped and redone, from scratch, quickly & easily. The footrest asm, wheels, swingarm and, in your case, fenders are all going to get chips & wear spots. Having the ability to painlessly make them look as they did when you first built the bike can be a big plus. Perhaps you'll ride all summer, then repaint these parts at the end of each season...keeping your beater well-maintained, painlessly, for years to come.

    As for whether to clearcoat, or not...it depends. Generally speaking, clear adds another layer of sealant, as well as extra gloss. The OE candy colors were 2-stage lacquer and didn't seal the metal worth a damn. Primer-sealer could have been used. However, with candy colors, the value relies on having a uniform thickness of transparent color. Thus, with clearcoat you'd have at least a chance of dealing with light scratches...either by sanding & polishing them out, or scuffing & re-clearcoating an area without creating light spots...or tiger-striping, unlike original candy colors. With certain paints, such as wheel paint, the clearcoat is necessary for chemical resistance.

    Touch-ups can sometimes be a problem when clearcoat is used. You can end up with the old, dreaded, "onion skin/wood grain" effect, unless an entire section is redone. The best examples of this are factory paint jobs, especially CSB. For reasons unknown, a lot of them were redone - multiple times - at the factory. I've seen pieces (including frames) with up to four base/color layers. When they get nicked, scratched, sanded, or stripped the alternating color layers really stand-out. Unless you're okay with occasionally redoing the red parts, from scratch, go for a conventional metallic, or solid, color. This includes "near-candy" colors. Since it's a beater, it might be worth trading a little bling for practicality. The clear/no clear decision will more than likely be dictated by the manufacturer. Some paint systems require clearcoat. When all else fails, follow their directions.
     
  19. Adam-NLV

    Adam-NLV Well-Known Member

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    Dang f'n right to that. I've worked with flat black before and it is so pervious to scratching and splotching, it'll drive you nuts.:102:

    Semi-gloss or gloss black is a lot more durable especially if you bake the parts, it looks good too.:first:
     
  20. kirrbby

    kirrbby Well-Known Member

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    Much appreciated racerx.

    108cc's it is 52x51 and then I'll try to make it rev. I'll be asking for advice about that later.. I'll use the $50 12v crank with a knock off Ricky stator. I'm only a little worried about asking the cheap China crank to spin fast, and for many years.

    The Duplicolor Metalcast looks really good over faded, scratched and rusty CYS. That will be my short term plan for the red. I'll research that paint a little and decide about whether or not to clear over it. I'm thinkin not. Cheap fast and easy on the red and then real paint down the road if all goes as expected. I actually have a qt of near candy red that I had mixed long ago and never even opened. Not interested in putting the work into using that for this bike tho, considering it'll likely be all removed in a year or 4 anyway.

    I can definitely be happy with low gloss black. So long as there's no shine. Now I'm thinking maybe go see my paint guy and just buy a qt of Honda matching sheen. Take in a HL bucket for reference and buy paint that I can use for other projects as well. I can get a better paint that way and I have a tiny spray gun that should work well and be easy to pull out and use. Easy touch up, easy clean, and durable are all good for the black. Might even be cheaper this way verses rattlecans. I might stop in and talk with the paint guy on my way home today. See what I can find out about single stage low gloss black, and 2&3 stage while I'm at it. At this point I don't want to get too particular about a beautiful paint job. I'm a terrible painter even when I'm giving it my best. But I do at least know how to take advantage of good advice and good products. I'll maybe consider powder coat for the chip prone parts and luggage rack. Powder was what I was considering for all, until I started listing everything that would need to be done.
     
  21. power6994

    power6994 Member

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    hey kirbby,

    why don't you get all the black parts powder coated in matte black?
    they will be more durable than if it gets petrol on the $2 black can paint.

    Matte finishes on cars have a flat clear sprayed over a base colour.

    here is a pic of a bike I did with a matte clear over the top.

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