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Discussion in 'Concours Section' started by Ajf, Oct 19, 2019.
I was wondering who makes the most correct ct70 k1 decals? Thanks
Can't give you the precise amswer you're seeking. All repops differ from original in significant ways, beginning with the materials used, how they're constructed and printed.
That said, NEVC K1 tank decals fit exactly...i.e. no "tan lines"...a fit so precise it surprised me.
Thank you for the reply. I tried searching for them on the site and can’t seem to locate them.
When I restored my first K1, I used diablo cycle(aka Reproduction decals), a local company about 20min from my hometown. I was very very impressed with their quality and the colour and font accuracy. Honda decals are not listed on their website as Honda got on their case about copyright infringements, but send them an email and tell them what you are looking for. They do offer lots of decal sets for the lil Hondas and bigger bikes.
I would add also - I currently have a bike that needed to be painted due to primer being sprayed on it and it was not coming off - epoxy primer . I had an original bike to help with the decal alignment and I found the reproduced decals good but found the side badges for the K1 were not as correct as I had hoped for . The original bike k1 side badges that still had clear laminate on them showed a very transparent blue hue that mimics candy blue for lack of better terms . Meaning the blue printing cast over the aluminum base creates a candy sort of finish and the reproduction badges were just a baby blue solid finish - not transparent like the original . Is there a reproduction that is better .or correct like the original aluminum badge .
These ones from CHP in texas look pretty nice! Printed on Aluminum like originals.
Thanks for posting - yes those are the ones I just installed on a frame I painted . Don't get me wrong - I was glad to have them and aluminum - thought they are real nice . Then I sat back and looked across at an original untouched 72 aaand nope - the original Honda are translucent on the blue area - darker blue hue and certainly noticable . The Blue ink is placed over the aluminum and creates a candy blue translucent over the polished raw aluminum plate . . I was just wondering if anyone was producing an even better repro .
I am aware of the great job CHP has done on bolts, cables and more and I'm showing fussy when I state they are not perfect excellence as their original original badge from Honda .
I believe other model years may be very exact - like the earlier side badges in black and such - can't speak to the fact . Right now I'm only stating the 72 badge can be easilly spotted . I have been recently working on a very special bike I had found and I have been enjoying cleaning it and using it for an example to correctly place cables and such on 3 other 72s I am restoring . What I have found is - grey cables from repro are close very nice to have but lack the printing on originals - the bolt kit is new looking and very close but not exactly as originals - especially the washers - on the 72s that I have and there's 3 of them and I'm paying attention .
Guys I'm a bodyman with a few years of builds on some nice restored vehicles and have been recently been applying some interest in these Honda mini bikes . I like to restore back to stock original because it's difficult but easy . If we respect the simplistic thought of these little bikes and just try to respect the engineer and design team and just follow it - it's pleasing to me . Sort of like the Candy colours that catch our eye and made us excited and chase these . So no slam on the recreated badge on the 72 but it's not there yet . But I was sure happy that CHP did the cables and nuts and so much more but I'm noticing that they are not perfect as far as original . But I finally nailed the Ruby Red and it was so simple - we call it a tri coat now because of the clear but all it took was of course the silver base just like the aluminum base on the badge , but I was applying the red ink too thick and once I thinned it out allot and shot it more sparingly - very very close if not excellent - now you need to shoot it very poorly around the triple clamp and swing arm and it becomes just like factory - silver showing through . But who is going to do a marginal job like that on a restoration unless they are getting it judged - if that even exists with these . So I over restored this Ruby red and gave it a better than original finish .
I don't think you can see the translucent blue cast over the aluminum and that candy effect . All it shows is a blue like the reproduction . And you would think what is this guy going on about .
First off, if that bike you have there is a unmolested, unrestored survivor, that is absolutely incredible!!! It looks brand new, I'd love to hear the story of how you acquired it. I'm a huge 72 lover as well. By the sounds of it, you are a purist, and have an excellent bike to use for an example and reference along with period correctness. That being said, I think NOS parts are going to be your best option to satisfy your attention to factory original detail. As you say, aftermarket reproduction parts are nice, but never exactly how Honda manufactured them. Budget friendly for guys like me!
It's real that's all I know untill I met it . I am trying to slow down and not screw it up while cleaning it . Allot of toothbrush work after an initial warm water and a car soap wash and blew the moisture out of the crevices . IT HAS A FEW NICKS but not terrible. I am having difficulty with the sheathing exiting the frame and the high low beam switch sheathing , as good as the rubber and coil wires and such are , those 2 sheathings are hard and it needs replaced but don't want to replace them and devalue this - but it does need done .
As far as where it came from it was owned by an Italian fella, that used the bike to and from his fishing spot and after he passed his son sold me the bike . Hence the plastic was still on the badges and top SS frame trim , the top frame trim that is covered with a blue plastic was still on the strip but was an ugly brown dried up - when I got it and I had to remove the dried plastic.
I wasn't downplaying the offerings from CHP - they are helping the hobby immensely and have created and excellent product for us but as far as original on the cables they are missing some very big telltale signs but very nice stuff . I allready had ordered some sheathing from them for the frame hole grommet to headlight but when I got it - it seems larger than original and if I got ahead and remove the original there is no going back . It needs replaced - it's stiff and it's sharp right at the grommet . That's about all I know of the history - I'm sure we will have a conversation with the son soon and possibly then I can inquire more about his dad and his recollection of that history with the bike . It came out of Northern Ontario and the drive up was 4 effortless hours into cottage country and he came down a couple hours to assist in the travel . Great guy and with Covid it was a shorter conversation due to masks and distance and kept it short for respect of the virus and it's abilities to attach itself if not carefull .
So yes I'm trying to use this example to help with a couple other 72 s and replicate cable routing , fasteners , and paint coverages in certain areas but painting these again and getting a good match as well as not overrestoring them is difficult . From what I have found is they didn't put much colour over the base seems to be the trick as far as colour matching and swingarm and such inside didn't get much coverage over the silver base or the steering stem base . No primer anywhere - most probably just a wash over the bare steel . So it's not hard to improve - meaning sand it a bit better - remove the weld spatter and apply a consistent amount of top coat in and around corners - So the Ruby Red that I sprayed a month ago - looks or pops with the clear coat and is definately over restored compared to this Candy Yellow - . It's still got a shine to it but 50 year old laquer has a differant sheen vs urethane clear fresh and deeper .
That is a very cool story, and truly amazing find and purchase! Restoring it would only devalue it likely. Cleaning it up...freeing up the sticky bits is definitely the right approach in my eyes. I'd have a really hard time not getting attached to that one! Having an Ontario ownership would add huge value too.
I agree with you on the CHP main harness sheathing too, it's nice, but much bigger than original. I wish i could remember where I ordered all my gray wire sheathing from years ago, they probably have nice black sheathing too. This gray stuff I have is super nice and matches perfectly to the original. I'm gonna work on figuring that out now.
I asked if an ownership or title was around and didn't know of one so took a bill of sale - I will look into the paperwork later most of the ones I have got titles or ownership for have never been registered and was relatively simple .
As far as sheathing on the grey - I have some but the male bullits would have to be removed and they are a solid bullit - not open and I'm not clipping them and soldering back and basically bastardizing it . I can hide it but I'm not about to misrepresent it. So it's find an NOS I suspect and hope that's it's pliable enough to route through the handlebars or just leave it alone . Tough to leave it as I usually try and correct deficiencies .
Thanks for the interest it's been a good conversation and all I tried here was to educate myself on - if a real nice exact reproduction of the decals and badge exists , I know the decals are good and so are the badges but the badges I am aware still have room to go . I know it's just a ct70 72 but I think people should be aware if they are going down a path of replacing and know if deficiencies exist . But thanks to CHP and others for their products - the re- engineering and availability really helps . Remember i can only speak to the 72 k1 badge - k0 and such may be perfection . And of course NEVC decals and Diablo were spoken to . . I have used Diablo for decals on the 72 Ruby Red ones and was happy to have the product and fairly local as well .
I got confused trying to get something done and if you go to post #17 - 250 mile k1 i posted pics of the badging . Sorry about the mixup .
Could you post some pics of your original 72’s for the rest of us. I have searched many many pic on the web, books, and even at CHP’s show room to try to get my cable routing as close to original as possible. Any and all pics of all the cables, spark plug cable, fuel lines, battery overflow, etc would be greatly appreciated!! Untouched good shape originals are hard to find much less get close enough to them to see the good details lol.
Morning Clayton - only the 72 Candy gold is original with the low 247 miles and the ruby is only 700 but has been around the block and has a past . So yes I will take some pictures and document it carefully but let me get some stuff done here. I will be posting a good bit on this once snow let's up and I get to a comfortable place with the red one . If i stop and document and post all about the 72 gold - I accomplish nothing . If you need some help on small details please just message me and I will discuss on the phone if you like . I am very comfortable with autos and paint but when it comes to these Honda examples I am pretty timid . What I mean is -when I sprayed the Ruby Red out - I found that the less midcoat I put on over the silver base - the more correct the colour was . So used to getting these tri coats on a vehicle was easy but of course the Japanese analogy was apply very sparingly and that was the answer . So still getting my head wrapped around this stuff . But I'm getting it figured out
So back to your need - I will get it posted up and share what needs to be documented with the forum so as to push the next guy that needs help from a purist standpoint . Then it's up to them as to adhere to correctness or deviate to suit their needs or wants
There are some nice examples I am sure on this site as far as correct and possibly a thread needs to be started on these low mileage , nicely kept originals to assist .
I noticed a thread the other day of markings on bolts after a final assembly torque was done - this example had blue markings on the wheel bolts and a swipe on the rear sprocket . I understand your appreciation of cables and such - they had it figured out as simple as it may seem - cables routed in a certain way work - especially when folding the bars .it shows up . So let's see if we can get a bunch here that have good examples and get them to show case their pieces and some anomalies they see - example would be differant years and or differant markings / colours used or was the blue IT - so to speak . I noticed some faint yellow on the wheel bolts and almost thought it was a Dichromate bolt but possibly it was a yellow torque marking , maybe it was just stored inside and the guy smoked . Not sure its fifty years old and I'm not the knowledge base on these - I'm a car guy with lots of experience there , and I like what the engineers perfected . I try to stay close to stock because it works well and history is interesting especially when looked at closely and it's something to achieve. That's my take - but there are lots of guys improving these - like an 88 CC or more on and on .
There are some good examples of bikes on here, and you are correct when a cable is wrong it way wrong lol. I took lots and lots of pics of the decals on my bike with rulers before I disassembled it. That came in way handy when I was putting the new decals on. Also I totally understand the wait, we all get busy and I hate getting distracted when I’m deep in thought.
Honda did issue detailed assembly instructions for their products which included such things as cable routing. I have yet to find them for the early CT's and Z though. Here are some examples- https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...=honda+ct+70+OEM+SET-UP+INSTRUCTIONS&_sacat=0