The rear shocks are, structurally speaking, the best lifting points...if you don't count the rear wheel and that's kinda awkward. I use the the muffler and rear fender for that final "alley oop", loading the bike into a vehicle or on/off the workbench. That's when I miss the luggage rack, it was a really usable lift handle. FWIW, I agree with you on the weight, especially since it just keeps getting heavier every year.
Seat pan tweaks are almost unavoidable, to some extent. Straightening a pan is possible but usually involved and requires R&Ring the cover & foam. You're right, there's probably nothing to worry about, at all. Honda redesigned the pan at least a couple of times during the 1970s. You've got the "latest & greatest" of the 6v era seat pans. It's reinforced where it counts. I've not run across one, of this design, that's been cracked. That's in large part because there aren't many of them out there. However, the last of service replacements Honda produced, circa 2008, had essentially the same construction as yours and a really heavy vinyl cover. The K0-K1 crowd...the vast majority...have the toughest challenge keeping a seat intact...weak pan design, perishable latex foam padding and thinner vinyl. Those require a LOT of work to repair, reinforce (so the breakage won't return) and properly finish.
IMO, refinishing the cloud silver pieces should make this bike look sensational.
While the seals are out of the fork legs, plan on giving the inside of the lowers a thorough cleaning. Come refill time, I'd start with 15W fork oil; you can always drain it and refill with 20W fork oil if suspension action is still too squishy. Compress the fork legs fully (easy when there are no springs to fight) then add oil until it's visibly within ~3" of the top. Then, with the cap replaced but loose enough to allow airflow pump the fork leg a few times to drive out trapped air and recheck the oil level. It'll probably be low enough that you can't see it. Refill to ~4" below the top, leg fully compressed. Then fully extend the leg, replace the cap tightly enough to seal and test the action by compressing it. If you get hydrolock before it can bottom out, pour out ~5cc of oil and retest...repeat if necessary. Once it no longer hydrolocks that's it, the action has been tuned as much as possible with oil quantity. OTOH, if you can bottom it out easily, add ~5cc and repeat the process until you just feel the onset of hydrolock. Getting the oil quantity to the ragged edge is absolutely worth the effort. The amount of improvement is surprising, and IMHO, this style fork performs better than seems possible, when setup this way.
