Does this points heel look to worn to set points?

its a very strange design - correct me if im wrong but to get the flywheel to stay on the T you need to hold it there or else it springs back a bit to the middle of the T and F ... is there some trick to get it to stay on the T while you set the gap??

Nope. Tape it. Glue it. Weld it. Wedge it. Have a friend hold it. Or...

The gap HAS to be set, and measured, on the T.
No exceptions!
Lolol

It can be done using blind trial & error. The breaker assembly has a short slot, which limits travel. Rotate the crank, find the spot where the points close, then using the screwdriver find the gap setting that just allows the contacts to close fully...rotate the crank and watch the points opening and closing. At the spot where they open/close, it only takes a few degrees of crankshaft rotation to cycle the points...all of which should be visible via that tiny window in the flywheel. Once you verify that they open & close, pull the spark plug, lead connected, and ground it against the engine, while you crank it over, by hand, using the kickstart lever. You should see a nice, bright, whitish-blue spark jumping between the two electrodes. If you see arcing anywhere else, install a new plug & restest; that should cure the problem. If not...you know where to ask further questions.

And...please...for your own sake, it's called a rubbing block. Get accustomed to using that term, it could save you a lot of needless frustration one day.

85CTrider said:

its a very strange design - correct me if im wrong but to get the flywheel to stay on the T you need to hold it there or else it springs back a bit to the middle of the T and F ... is there some trick to get it to stay on the T while you set the gap??

Click to expand...

Its not a spring, sounds like the compression in the cylinder wants to push back, (a good sign) you could loosen the spark plug, let some air out if you think its necessary, that'll keep it from moving enough to get it set.

I've had trouble too getting the feeler gauge to fit in there, so I ground the sides off a bit and bent the end down to get a better angle. I have also put angles on the feeler gauges that I use for the valves. Just makes things easier.

Another method of keeping the flywheel still is to take a shallow-well socket that fits the flywheel nut, and the ratchet and set the socket on the nut once you have the flywheel set to the "T" mark. The weight of the ratchet hanging straight down will prevent the flywheel from wanting to "drift"

OK guys - your help was amazing.. i got the points set and the bike starts and runs fine. !! very cool.. so i took it for a ride... and now.. they mystery continues.. it rides fine but one warm.. when i stop at a stop sign the bike idle gets low low,low and wants to die and then dies... i can only turn the idle so high - it will re start fine with a kick start then i need to get it into gear fast and get home.. when home i tried turning in the air mix screw a bit as i think it was running rich as plug was black.... also when i took the gas cap off to let air in it seemed to idle better and faster/./ i have had issues with this gas cap i think not letting air in.. should i drill a hole in the gas cap? check for air leaks>? replace condensor??? would bad condenser cause it to stall when hot?? air leak? no gas flow?? where do i go from here|?? i cant really ride farther then a few blocks as i aint pushin this thing home - lets get it dialed in!!

Congrats, your bike can ride again! Don't drill a hole in the gas cap, ever. Just replace with a known good cap &Air Filter needs to be clean too of course.
I think my fuel/air was 2.5 turns out, after i gently tightened all in I got a new plug and it ran even better.

ok.. i got the new plug so that is done.. now - to explain better... while riding and coming to a stop sign it idles- then the idle gets lower and lower and then it dies.. starts again when i give it some throttle... not sure if its a fuel flow issue.. ???? can a bad condenser cause it to stall when warm? ?? can it be the aim mix screw needing adjustment??? where should i start????

A condensor problem & engine wouldn't start. Make sure your choke is not on after its started. Re-check the points make sure their still set. There is also an idle circuit inside the carb, a carb rebuild may be on your horizon, especially if its been a while.

ok.. so not the condenser.. thats good... points are still set as it idles again and rides fine again.. just idles at stop sign and idle gets lower and lower till it dies.. seems worse and only does it when in gear and idling... i just cleaned the carb and the jets - but i could do it again - it always seems to be the carb... maybe the circuit and not just the jets???? i was out of carb cleaner when i cleaned it out.... duuuuhh... could it be an air leak???? i aways hear that??? could it be fuel flow??? runs better with no gas cap..

Did you install a new spark plug?

Those are symptoms of low fuel level inside the float bowl. If loosening the gas cap cures the problem, bingo...you'd know that the breather is clogged. That said, there are a number of things that can, potentially, restrict fuel flow: clogged inlet screen, dirt in the tank, pinched fuel hose, damaged fuel hose (they can swell internally), low float level. Based on your results, I'd focus on the fuel system. Ignition problems don't follow the pattern you've laid out.

BTW, the 1.5 turns out from seated is just a starting point for the pilot (idle) airbleed adjusting screw. This controls the amount of air entering the pilot (idle) fuel circuit. Get the engine up to temp, then turn that screw in either direction, as needed, to obtain the fastest idle speed. From there, I usually go ~1/8 turn clockwise to get the idle mixture ever-so-slightly on the rich side. That helps cold starting and off-idle throttle response.

i know the air bleed screw is always a hot topic.. but.. it makes a difference where the idle screw is turned into.. it still seems to want to stall after i stop at a stop sign.. idle gets lower and lower then dies... if i keep throttle open all is ok.. and it will start again.. should i clean the carb and idle jet again? would that cause it?? would an air leak do that>>>?

whats your guess is causing it to die while idling at stop sign??

1 . air leak

2. idle jet

3. fuel flow

4. air screw

5 idle screw

6. Whole carburetor rebuild or swap out kit rebuild parts .