Still don’t know if I have to lift all grounds volt meter, tach, digital speedometer, headlight, taillight, and signals. That’s a lot plus what about the ignition system?
I did that and all I have to say is..."don't!!". I lifted every ground in the system, including the OEM horn button, which took a fair bit of microsurgery. Three days painstakingly going through & verifying everything, plus unwrapping and modifying the already heavily modded wire harness, the experiment was a complete failure. Worse yet, there's no way to make a full wave rectifier work with a grounded stator...and you're on your own as far as technical assistance. The Trail Tech folks really left me pissed-off, at the time, with the sudden the lack of tech support...right in the middle of the project, whilst following their instructions.
Cut to the chase...A floating ground stator + full wave DC power is the cleanest solution, bar none. It's "real bike" electrics, with everything fed clean DC from the battery.
Think about it, isolating every ground on the bike: HL, TL, horn, ignition switch(es), brake light, battery, neutral light, turn signals (if present), speedo light, high beam indicator..kinda messy isn't it. Then, there's the engine...how is anyone going to electrically isolate that?
Now, I do know that a 3-coil stator can be used with a simple diode...i.e. "half wave". And, the six-coil Nice stator is just two 3-coil arrays...one feeding a silicon diode, the other AC power to the HL circuit...it's just equal output to both circuits, unlike the typical 5-coil Chinese alternators, the old 6v Honda stuff and the 12v era Honda. Thus, lifting the grounds and rewiring all 6 coils in-series, not only works but we know it has 3 coils wound CCW +3 wound CW...which still doesn't answer the basic odd/even number of coils question.