69Z50 K1 rear brake cable routing needed
- Thread starter 85CTrider
- Start date
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
Why don't you show US some pics. The BEST way to get good answers is to ask GOOD questions...WITH PICTURES...and any other info you got.
If you'll show me one pic, I'll show you three.
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85CTrider
Member
my god that bike is work of art... is that original or a restore?? your photos are exactly what i needed.. any chance you can post a photo of the rear brake lever? that is where the tension nut is so i can see the angle its on etc.. your photos are amazing quality... thanks tweakin... 
85CTrider
Member
ok tweakin.. may be a problem here.. why is my brake arm so far back counter clockwise?? should i loosten it and rotate it clockwise to about 10 or 11 oclock??? would that solve my stupid brake light issue?? i also have old pads on and i was told to put new ones on.. i have new pads in my parts box.. should i slap em on?? SPRING IS LOOSE .... just sitting there...
analyze this photo....
analyze this photo....
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
85CTrider, if you'd have posted that pic days ago, you'd have had a answer days ago.
Look at the arm and the shaft that it mounts on. There should be a "dot" punched into each piece. Like if someone made the dots with a punch. Line up the dots and start there. New shoes are a very good idea too. If all is in good condition, lining up the dots, and new shoes, should have it indexed for good operation.
Look at the arm and the shaft that it mounts on. There should be a "dot" punched into each piece. Like if someone made the dots with a punch. Line up the dots and start there. New shoes are a very good idea too. If all is in good condition, lining up the dots, and new shoes, should have it indexed for good operation.
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85CTrider
Member
yo kirbby - i saw the tiny punch dot on the brake rod .. cool.. i also saw a tiny hole punched on the brake arm - but its not super close to where the rod goes through the arm.. is that normal??? in any case.. mine are way off... very weird.. i guess i put on new pads and align dots and see what happens.. thanks again
Take a close look at the brake cam. There may be a non-splined portion of the outside circumference and, if so, it lines-up with the un-splined ID of the brake arm. CT70 rears are like this, can't recall if the early Z50s are, or not. It's a foolproof system.
As for brake shoe wear, that makes a big difference in brake cam rotation, and the tension adjustment. The later CT70s have wear indicators, placed over the brake cam splines...along with an index pointer in the brake plate casting. If you have new brake shoes, use `em. Vintage originals usually suck out loud...no stopping power. They also contain asbestos.ainkiller:
As for brake shoe wear, that makes a big difference in brake cam rotation, and the tension adjustment. The later CT70s have wear indicators, placed over the brake cam splines...along with an index pointer in the brake plate casting. If you have new brake shoes, use `em. Vintage originals usually suck out loud...no stopping power. They also contain asbestos.
ainkiller:
85CTrider
Member
kirby... where is the little spring thing on your rear brake arr that goes around the rod and hooks on the hub?? i dont see that.. i was wondering how to get brake arm in 11 or 12 oclock position with that spring ???? can someone help?? still have brake switch issues.. i would just like to known why it keeps going off when i turn bars to right,, do i need to strap cable down\???
kirrbby
Well-Known Member
YIUR BRAKE CABLE IS BEING STRETCHED TOO TIGHT WHEN YOU TURN TO THE RIGHT. THAT IS ACTUATING THE BRAKE LIGHT SWITCH IN THE CABLE.
My bike is a K2. It does not have or need the spring that you mentioned. Mine has a foot pedal in addition to the hand lever...different setup, different cable, etc.
If you fix the brake arm clocking it will fix your problem. Yours is currently wrong. You need to fix it.
My bike is a K2. It does not have or need the spring that you mentioned. Mine has a foot pedal in addition to the hand lever...different setup, different cable, etc.
If you fix the brake arm clocking it will fix your problem. Yours is currently wrong. You need to fix it.
85CTrider
Member
man... this is driving me bonkers... i dont think i am stretching the cable when i turn bars to the right.. i am in fact compressing it i think... rotating arm on brake rod will make cable compress even more.. and compressing cable is what triggers the switch.. its just weird that that switch is so f -ing sensetive... the front one works perfect.. cable compresses and triggers switch.. rear one works fine when bars are straight and goes on when bars turn to the right... i will try puting that bloody brake rod at 12oclock and see what happens.. i think i got it close to 12 and had same issue if not worse... i just put new brake pads on,,, no diffference... wodering is straping cable down under tank makes a difference or if cable straps to strap cables around handle bars make a difference??
85CTrider
Member
ok.. i have once again tried straping cable down.. not much better.. i even opened up the switch,, took the silver cap off and it seems to work a bit better when the cap is off.. im not sure if i got a bunk ass switch here... does anyone else have this problem? i would alter the switch so it takes more compression to activate it but not sure how to do that.. not sure if i am running the cable correct over the handle bar and down beside the headlight and along right side of bike... it looks like i run it same way i see all others do it yet when bars go to right it activates switch.,. i have now aligned rear brake arr correct.. two dots are alligned.. brake works fine... just the switch.. should i just order a new cable? what else can i try kirby??
