keeping things straight for you, on the reassembly I did something a little different. I don't think it matters at the end of the day, but maybe it does. First time, I used two base gaskets sandwiched between 2 0.4mm aluminum base gaskets (spacers). That brought the piston to TDC and perhaps just a tiny bit proud...only enough to catch your fingernail. And because of that, I used a thick 0.75mm cometec base gasket. This time, on reassembly, i used two base gaskets and a 1.2mm aluminum spacer, and the piston was in the hole enough to catch a fingernail. So, I was able to use a thin copper head gasket that was only 0.25mm thick...that means that I've effectively raised the CR a tad bit as I suspect I've reduce the combustion chamber volume. I would assume that would provide me a little more power...might not be noticible.
The bike is still being setup and dialed in...this week I'll receive different handlebars, i have to relocate the brake diverter valve, I'm swapping out the headlight assembly, and still have to get the brakes bled more effectively. I've always had great success using speed bleeder valves in my brakes and if I cannot get it next time I try, i'll order a set of those and I'm sure I'll be able to complete the task quickly.
Lastly, because I am removing the original style headlight and speedo, this bike no longer has a speedo on it. So I need to come up with a solution for that. Not sure what I'm going to do there, but it will not be a cable driven speedo. I can go with a GPS or a magnetic one...but whatever I use will need to work in a batteryless setup, so it has to be something that does not use a lot of power. I guess if I ever needed to pop a battery in this I can, but I wired in a large capacitor instead and that seems to operate everything just fine right now.