Yep, hope there is something for the 4 speed, I am pretty impressed with the Light , now if I just rewire the Light to run from the Battery, it SHOULD be constant brightness all the time. That's what I was always looking for anyway, I just wanted the light to stay steady, even if it was not super bright.
Nope, there's nothing else for the 4-speeds. For me, that, along with the sheer number of 6v motors out there, is a major driver behind the full wave rewind/conversion. Of course, going to a 12v alternator is
possible but, that's a lot of changes and a substantial chunk of change...unless one has a really huge sofa.
What you're going to find is that, with HL power coming from the battery, you will have a partial-loss lighting/charging system. HL output should be stable but, the DC power coming through is going to be less than 50% of the AC fed into the rectifier. Transforming half the waveform into waste heat is inefficient. I ran this setup for ~15 years on my main rider. With a 12v/5.0ah battery onboard and a guesstimated 15-18W of DC power on the charging circuit, powering a 35W HL bulb & 1W LED TL, I estimated a solid 3 hours of HL power...which was never tested. What bothered me was the lack DTRLs, a safety issue. Available 6v SLA batteries top out in the 5.0ah range, roughly half the charge capacity of the 12v flavor...which is very believable, as they are half the physical volume.
There may be a little more output coming from the yellow HL lead. Kirby unwound one of these 6v coils and, as I recall, there were more windings on that "side" of the coil. The problem remains, insufficient wattage. Let's say, for example, that the alternator can make 35W, total/combined AC power and that the yellow lead gets "the big 50%"...20W. That's not going to do the job. Even if it's 25W, we'd be lucky to see more than 10W DC downstream of the diode rectifier. With a total lighting draw (HL + TL + instrument bulbs) of 30W the math sez that there'd be about 80 minutes of runtime, before the 6v/5.0ah battery would be discharged. Unfortunately, there's no way to combine the yellow & white leads, since they are both run to ground. That is THE issue. Going to a full wave setup solves the problem. With, say, 35W total output, fed through an efficient bridge diode rectifier/voltage regulator, there'd be more like 34W
available to the battery. The operative word here is "available". Unlike the OEM setup, excess power is dumped to ground, thanks to 21st century (or at least later 20th century) electronics.
I began dealing with the electrical inadequacies of these bikes years before this board was created. What I'm presenting here is a distillation of my own R&D. Believe me, if there were an easier way of getting the results that many of us want, someone would have discovered it and the info would have been shared long ago. Even the voltage issue, 12v vs 6v, is more about practicality than technology. There's no reason why the same circuitry/component designs wouldn't work with 6v, or any other specified voltage. It's simply a matter of available components; 6v stuff was obsolete decades ago. If one could source a 6v full-wave reg/rec unit, then all of the bulbs + the battery could be left as they are. IMHO, however, that'd leave one with very few alternatives and products come & go over time. Swapping bulbs is easy...and the world is mostly populated by 12v versions.
. So it's just going to takes a little longer than it should. 
