"Were going to need a bigger shoehorn!!"
- Thread starter Grant's trail
- Start date
IMO, the filler panel and your billet extension solution are both viable. With your metalworking skills, however, a custom fender presents a third possibility. If you happen to have a couple of used fenders lying around, it might be worth investigating what can be realized through cutting
& sectioning to create a longer fender, using one as a source of donor metal. Maybe a combination of front & rear fender pieces could give you an extended fender that needs no mount extensions. If it works, then a trip to the custom chromer and voila! subtle-yet-custom.
& sectioning to create a longer fender, using one as a source of donor metal. Maybe a combination of front & rear fender pieces could give you an extended fender that needs no mount extensions. If it works, then a trip to the custom chromer and voila! subtle-yet-custom.
The problem I see with that is the angle or radius of the stock fender cutout would necessitate an extended fender having a bend or "hump" as it clears the back of the frame. If you look close, the stock fender opening actually angles back down toward the tires. To have a fender that follows the tire contour, as it extends past the bike frame, it would have to curve back up somewhat.
vrodsss
Active Member
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I noticed that as well . You would have to change the entire contour of the fender . I think it looks good as is .
Once the filler panels are in it will look great .
That little detail did not escape my attention, either. However, it's really simple to get an idea of what's possible, if you have two fenders, just by holding them together and varying their relative positions. For that matter, a handful of kerf cuts might allow a subtle stretching of the overall fender radius. It might not work out well. With a clean, simple, solution to fall back on, what's to lose in the attempt? That said, it's not like there's positively zero wiggle room. With vrodsss fabrication skills and this level/amount of custom fab work, imo, it's worth investigating the possibility. Another fender, with a larger radius, might be worth checking as well. When using a shoehorn this big, an equally large saw & hammer merely round-out the toolkit.:butcher:
Grant's trail
Member
It's hard to say how it will look when the weight is on it on the ground. right now when the swingarm travels up the radius on the fender is to big. when its down it looks too small just like a ct would. to get it to look right all the time the fender should be mounted to the swingarm so the distance between the tire and the fender never changes. The two fender idea is very workable but I need to get more of it together to see how the whole bike will look. Those are the 12" wheels from CHP. Since I didn't have any rims to start with I thought I give them a try. The tires are 120/70 12" and are 19 1/4" tall. Thanks everyone for the ideas.
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Grant's trail
Member
I this is what happens at full travel, since the stock shocks only have about 2" of travel and this is closer to 4" plus, it will never reach this far but Racer has a good point if the fender had a little larger radius at the end of the fender you would gain a little more clearence. At some point I have to get some better shocks with more travel (I Hope!) and I do have an extra fender I might try massaging a little nothing has fit so far so I know I'm on the right track...lol! And Scooter Great photo shopping! I wish I was better at that!!
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theraymondguy
Well-Known Member
Now you've got it. I think the fender would look incredible mounted just over the tire. Beull'esque'.
I figure that you'll make the right choice. There's more than one and, more importantly, as the builder/designer/fabricator you get to make the call. How can you lose? All I'm doing is throwing out ideas. At best, maybe one of `em will be new to you and prove workable. I've seen a few of these bikes with the rear fender mounted to the swingarm, usually when a +6cm aftermarket arm has been fitted. It's arguably the best way to get proper fit with a longer-than-stock swingarm, though there's usually a large gap that leaves the rear wheel looking disconnected from the rest of the bike. You don't have that problem, as the swingarm length looks about right for the bike/tire size combo. However, a swingarm-mounted fender could be a very clean setup, especially with the right tail light/bracket/license plate mount.
Grant's trail
Member
Grant's trail
Member
Thanks Dupa, All Tigged, I start with small tack welds about every 1/2" or so then keep tacking inbetween them. and move around alot finely all the tack's are conected and it looks like one piece. I cut the pieces out of 16 gauge, then ground them to fit the frame.
Dupa
Member
I haven't done any welding on these frames yet however the polishing I did for my project bling was a little fussy trying to keep the heat from warping or rippling the steel. Ill bet you have to watch closely when welding to prevent serious warpage and burn through. Most see pics of fine work like yours and don't realize the finesse it takes to achieve it.
Again great work. Cant wait to see more.:77:
Again great work. Cant wait to see more.:77:
Grant's trail
Member
When you tig weld or (Heli-arc) you can have good controll on how much heat you put into the job. the small beads of weld didn't even burn the primer that was about a 1/2" away. the trick is to do small spot welds, get good pentration but don't overly heat up the work. I have been looking at the carb question, the stock intakes are made of not the best left over alum. that honda had.lol I started making up new carb and head flanges and some 6061 alum tubes to weld up new ones. so far very few things have fit first time out. But were ploding ahead.
OakBehringer
Member
My instincts are: New manifold, single carb conversion.
Grant's trail
Member
Single carb, would be very hard to fit with what room is left, without more cutting on the frame, this week I gave the fender a rest for a week or so and was working on a intake set-up. Here's the right side its the tightest, couldn't use the orginals to much remelt in the castings don't weld very well. made up new tubes and flanges cut the tube and bent it some welded it up still have to grind it and make it pretty..lol then we'll make the mirror image for the other side...I'm going with 20mm vm Mikuni's and run a split cable for both carbs.
