CT70 out of storage!

[Adam-NLV]

Ok, Fueled up this morning. No leaks! But Wouldn't start. Changed spark plug, nope. Took the gas cap off and it starts but only at WOT ?, I guess the cap isnt venting...?
Then it will run if you gas it. It won't idle and runs a lil rough. I took it down the road did like 32mph but it was rough, then it died. It needs carb adjusting big time it seems...Its the stock carb I rebuilt 2yrs ago, first time to start it. I start it again but you have to hold throttle full open...
There are only two adjustments,one is cross-top idle screw, the other is common I dont know what that does. Anyone know?

 

[OLD CT]

The screw on the left is the mixture screw, I think the pilot jet is clogged.

 

[Adam-NLV]

I remember getting a aftermarket for my Lifan 110 and it ran great right out of the box, I'll mess with it some more but a 30 year old carburetor tuning aint my idea of fun, may be time for a new one....

What is a decent aftermarket? i think my Lifan one I used was a M19, it was only around $25. that may be the way to go.


Maybe like this..https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carb-for-Honda-Trail-CT90-CT110-Carburetor/221080496515

 

[OLD CT]

Nah, you don't want a knockoff 22mm for a stocker. it's too big. You will have tuning issues.

Remove the original carb, take it apart and re clean it. Nothing like keeping the correct carb on it, being it is such a low miler. Use a bread tie and go to town on all the tiny holes and orifices + emulsion tube, jets. Post up some pics when you take it apart.

 

[Adam-NLV]

Nah, you don't want a knockoff 22mm for a stocker. it's too big. You will have tuning issues.

Remove the original carb, take it apart and re clean it. Nothing like keeping the correct carb on it, being it is such a low miler. Use a bread tie and go to town on all the tiny holes and orifices + emulsion tube, jets. Post up some pics when you take it apart.

Ok, I will remove and inspect it. A carb-rebuild should work better than this! I am curious to see if I missed any tiny holes on the carb when I rebuilt it , ...Or maybe that 8 mo storage heat screwed with it, could be crap in it , remember those fuel lines were crap when i pulled them.

 

[kirrbby]

My low mile 93 ran awesome with the stock carb. You probably just have a small problem in there somewhere. Before you reinstall it, give it a gentle shake to hear that the float is moving free in there.
The pilot jet in these has a verry tiny hole. It wouldn't take much to plug it up. A speck of Nevada sand would do it for sure.

 

[Adam-NLV]

Thanks Kirb, that makes me feel better, that's why I rebuilt it in the first place, to keep it all stock, good to know they still should work great after three decades of mostly garage storage. Seems amazing though LOL

 

[cjpayne]

I think the pilot jet is clogged.

That was my first thought

 

[Adam-NLV]

She's a Purring Now W0W!

Starts on first kick and idles beautifully! What a difference from 24hrs ago! I found out what was wrong with it Lol!. First thing I did last nite after it wouldn't run was Grill a N.Y. steak and get a good night sleep.

This morning I tried to start it again, No dice, not even a kick. I then backed the air/fuel adjusting screw all the way out and it looked clean and dry? Too clean IMO started my suspicions...After that, I screwed it all the way back in and backed it out 1.5 turns (just randomly picked number)!
But...upon closer inspection I then realized I had the Reserve & On Lines switched on the pet cox! So it was out of GAS!

When it did start it wouldn't idle. For fun i flipped the choke on but turns out I actually flipped it off. It was starting yesterday w/the choke on).. But it started running! Was idling high at 1500 or so , so i adjusted it and it now runs P e r f e c t !

I was freaking outv to think I F' up the carb rebuild! I remember being very meticulous about it and was glad I still could use the stock jets not the ones in the rebuild kit.
So Hooray! Thanks guys for encouraging me to use this 30 yr old Carb!

P.S. I would Luv to go ride it but It's Freakin Raining!!! LOL----> That one will fix itself, I guarantee.

 

[Adam-NLV]

Got the headlights working, it had come unplugged. I put on a couple miles between storms!
Those pegs are from a 75, I taped em up because my shoe tread was getting caught in t, I took the stock ones off because they were too soft but I may put em back on. the bike runs great the engines still tight. Still has less than 300
Motoman's break in secrets, here I come, I like what he says about deceleration. i did those runs on my other engine, it ran really strong.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

[69ST]

Patience is a virtue...with its own rewards.

FYI, other model Honda footpegs can be used, if you want the rubber-covered type. There are a number of different versions. As long as the pivot pin hole is the same size as yours (M8) they can be adapted, if they're not "plug & play".

 

[SpecialEd]

Motoman's break in secrets, here I come, I like what he says about deceleration. i did those runs on my other engine, it ran really strong.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Having read what Motoman wrote about what seems to me to be a rather *harsh* engine break-in protocol, I'd like to know what Racerx has to say about this.

 

[69ST]

Having read what Motoman wrote about what seems to me to be a rather *harsh* engine break-in protocol, I'd like to know what Racerx has to say about this.

I partially agree with it. The crucial element, that I don't see mentioned (and understandably so) is time, as in "era". Engine technology has changed greatly since the 1960s. Metallurgy, production tolerances, designs and even surface finishes are all very different than they were when these machines were new. It's very much along the same lines as motor oil requirements. 5W20 oil in a 1960s-era V8 and straight 30W in a contemporary engine (pretty much any automotive engine) will both result in catastrophic failures, the the details will differ.

Detailing all, or most, of the differences between the engine tech upon which the motoman piece is based, and the horizontal singles we run, would be a lengthy write-up. Suffice it to say that things like 600-grit hones, low-tension/3-piece oil rings, contemporary piston skirt design(s) and 21st century machining tolerances have reduced break-in mileage and frictional heating...in contemporary engines. Now consider race engines; there's no real way to give those 100-1000 break-in miles, never was. How'd those survive their required virtually-from-the-get-go thrashings? What were the tradeoffs and are you willing to deal with those on a road machine? Subject engines of vastly different eras (technologically speaking) to the same break-in break-in procedure, based on a single protocol, and one is going to realize less-than-optimal results. For anyone wishing more detail, I've posted it in the past, thus it should be searchable.

 

[Adam-NLV]

Great Day for a ride. I adjusted the axle position aka wheel/camber and it seems kinda a rinky dinky way of alignment for the rear wheel.... Anyway, I end up adjusting the nuts but found that the lock washers were making this task unnecessarily difficult. I end up leaving the lock washers off! loll Because they were just in the way, are you guy keeping the lock washer and the flat one on there?

It seems to handle better now after the tire/chain/wheel/axle chain adjustment.

 

[kirrbby]

The older bikes use 2...jamb nuts. That's what I'd do if you get rid of the lockwasher. Or use a nylock nut. If you leave it as you have it, you'll likely lose that nut and washer.

EDIT.
Nope. The fiche for a K0 shows the lockwasher. Maybe it's just me that uses jamb nuts.

 

[OLD CT]

I do not understand how the lockwashers could be in the way? You set the axle up with the marks on the swingarm. Like you did, then you tighten the axle. Now that the axle nut is tight ''nothing is going to move''. Now take off the nuts and put the lockwashers back in after the flat washer and tighten the nuts down TIGHT. The new chain adjustment is NOT going to change when the axle bolt is tight.

 

[Adam-NLV]

Very decent logic OC. I was turning the nut to move the axle in position, when I should have had it tight. That makes sense.

I'll put the lock washers back on!-----> See I knew you weren't a knuckle head like sidewinder says!...

 

[red69]

Once you get labeled by Sidewinder, you're labeled for life!

 

[Adam-NLV]

LOL
Well I lost the chrome air cleaner acorn nut, gone with the wind! Word to the wise, use loc tite or make sure its tight, at least the side air cleaner chrome cover didnt get lost, found it resting on the motor.... The engine is running well. I'm doing the decompression runs...Going into 2nd the tire actually lifts a bit, i weigh 151 so that might xplain......The Freaking pet cox leaks sometimes/intermittent in the reserve position but not in the on position where i accidentally hooked up the reserve line to it , lol
So its all good.

 

[OLD CT]

Red, Sidewinder has trouble labeling a wet fart.